The Ralph Lauren Fall/Winter 2025 runway show marked a striking departure from his signature evening spectacles, opting instead for a midday presentation steeped in Edwardian elegance and Gothic drama. Held at the newly opened Jack Shainman Gallery in TriBeCa, the collection – titled “Modern Romantics” – celebrated the confident, multifaceted woman who dresses for herself, her mood and her ambitions. Against the backdrop of the gallery’s Beaux Arts grandeur, Lauren wove a cinematic tale of contrasts: rugged leather met delicate lace, Victorian ruffles coexisted with sharp tailoring, and heirloom craftsmanship elevated everyday wear into something extraordinary.
The front row, which included stars like Anne Hathaway, Michelle Williams and Kacey Musgraves, reflected the collection’s blend of old-world charm and contemporary edge. Hathaway’s understated glamour and Musgraves’ ten-gallon hat hinted at the range of women Lauren envisions wearing his designs – women unbound by rules, free to reinterpret tradition with their own personal style.
Lauren opened with daywear that set the tone for the collection’s narrative. A crisp, Edwardian-inspired white shirt fastened with an ornate brooch was effortlessly paired with a distressed brown leather jacket and tailored balloon pants tucked into knee-high boots. This juxtaposition of refined and rebellious was echoed throughout the lineup, from riding coats layered over ruffled blouses to a leather boiler suit that redefined utilitarian chic. The designer’s emphasis on hand-distressed textures and vintage finishes gave each piece a lived-in authenticity, as seen in a hand-brushed suede aviator jacket and airbrushed paisley blazers that felt both timeless and fresh.
Eveningwear took a softer turn, but no less bold. Ivory panné velvet halters with black lace jabots and tiered chiffon skirts exuded bohemian opulence, while sequined sweaters with floral beading offered a playful twist on formalwear. A standout final look-an off-white taffeta shirtdress with lace insets-embodied Lauren’s ability to balance drama with wearability, a gown that could transition from the red carpet to a garden party without losing its appeal.
Ralph Lauren’s decision to stage the show in daylight underscored his commitment to clarity and intention. “Good light brings out the contrasts,” he noted, referring to the collection’s interplay of masculine and feminine, structured and fluid. That clarity extended to his design philosophy: the Ralph Lauren woman, he explained, is whimsical yet confident, curating her wardrobe to reflect her changing moods and destinations. She might layer a Victorian blouse under a leather moto jacket one day and slip into a crinoline lace dress the next, but each choice is hers alone.
The show’s venue, a former New York Life Insurance building with 29-foot coffered ceilings, heightened the collection’s romanticism. The soaring architecture provided a fitting stage for Lauren’s vision-one that nods to his own legacy without descending into nostalgia.
References to his ’80s and ’90s campaigns, such as a sequined sweater that echoed model Clotilde Holby’s iconic look, felt less like throwbacks and more like reinventions for a new generation. Young designers, take note: Lauren’s ability to revisit his archives while remaining firmly focused on the future is a lesson in enduring relevance.
For Ralph Lauren, runway shows remain an essential storytelling tool. “Each collection builds a setting, like a movie,” he said, likening his process to creating a dreamscape in which women can imagine their aspirational selves. The Fall/Winter 2025 “movie” was one of dark romance and bright hope, where tailored riding jackets whispered of autumn mornings and velvet halters shimmered in the twilight.
The designer’s recent successes, from Hamptons showcases to high-profile collaborations, have solidified his brand’s cultural footprint. But Ralph Lauren remains focused on the future. “2025 holds exciting things,” he teased, leaving the audience eager to see how his modern romantics will evolve. If this collection is any indication, that evolution will be rooted in craftsmanship, confidence, and the quiet power of a woman who dresses only for herself.
©Photo: Ralph Lauren
