The Vivienne Westwood Fall/Winter 2025 collection represents a pivotal moment for the iconic British fashion house as it continues to evolve following the passing of its visionary founder. The latest offerings showcase the brand’s strategic approach to honoring its heritage while embracing new directions that will define fashion for seasons to come.
The Westwood design team has been remarkably productive in recent weeks. They staged a stunning runway presentation in Mumbai with an all local cast and reinterpreted many signature draped and deconstructed silhouettes using traditional Indian fabrics. The brand also made waves in Barcelona, participating in the city’s renowned Bridal Fashion Week with its first standalone bridal show.
“It’s just a very nice and important part of the life of our house,” said Andrea Kronthaler, explaining the decision to create a dedicated bridal presentation. The expansion into bridal reflects shrewd business acumen, as the brand recently transformed its Davies Street store in London into a destination for wedding dresses and dedicated an entire floor of its Milan boutique to bridal offerings.
In between orchestrating three catwalk shows within a six-week timeframe, including the directional Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood line shown in Paris, the release of the mainline lookbook provides valuable insight into the brand’s approach to serving its loyal customer base. The Fall/Winter 2025 collection retains the signature elements that have earned Westwood its loyal following – plaids, corseted tops, asymmetrical draping and Harris tweed appear throughout.
What sets this season apart are subtle innovations within the established framework. Of particular note are pieces that nod to sportswear, a category that has seen significant growth following a successful collaboration with London skate brand Palace. Standouts include a draped hooded jacket in an iridescent technical fabric first used by Westwood in the 1980s, and unconventional separates in treated denim.
The mainline has historically served as a platform for the design team to revisit styles from iconic collections, guided by the extensive in-house archive. The collection features thoughtful nods to the past, including diagonal slashes on poplin and taffeta reminiscent of the Spring 1991 Cut, Slash, and Pull collection, and a logo inspired by the Hollywood sign originally created for the opening of their Los Angeles boutique in 2011.
Despite these historical nods, the collection prioritizes innovation over nostalgia. The focus remains on new developments coming out of Westwood’s ateliers in southwest London. Intentional parallels to Kronthaler’s recent Paris presentation are evident throughout – from exaggerated ties that reach to the models’ ankles, to quilted velvet fencing jackets and recurring black-and-yellow tartan patterns.
The mainline design director notes that internal teams are increasingly collaborative, working to harmonize the design language across different ranges. This strategic direction shows how the house has addressed questions about its direction after Westwood’s death in 2022.
Rather than choosing between Kronthaler’s experimental instincts or doubling down on commercial staples, the brand has adopted a responsive approach that accommodates diverse customer preferences. Current offerings range from avant-garde pieces for adventurous customers to fresh takes on brand classics for others, as well as a growing collection of bridal wear for unconventional brides seeking alternatives to traditional wedding looks.
©Photo: Vivienne Westwood
