Glenn Martens will present his first collection as Creative director of Maison Margiela during Paris Haute Couture Week this July. The collection, the Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2025 collection, will mark a significant moment for one of fashion’s most provocative houses. The Belgian designer, who was appointed to the role in January 2025, follows British visionary John Galliano, who ended his decade-long tenure with an acclaimed Artisanal show for Spring/Summer 2024.
The Parisian fashion house confirmed that Martens will present a Maison Margiela Artisanal collection for Fall/Winter 2025 between July 7th and 10th, when the industry’s elite traditionally gather to witness the pinnacle of fashion craftsmanship.
“This marks the beginning of an inspiring new chapter for the Maison, rooted in our core creative values and shaped by Margiela’s couture heritage. Under Glenn’s leadership, couture will continue to ignite the brand’s creativity and push the boundaries of design,” Maison Margiela said in its official announcement.
Martens’ selection represents a calculated decision by Renzo Rosso, chairman of the OTB Group, which owns Maison Margiela. “After Martin, who gave life to the Maison and its unique Artisanal line, and John, who made it the most modern couture house in the world, I am proud to have a third couturier at the helm,” Rosso said when Martens’ appointment was announced in January.
The connection between Martens and the house founded by Martin Margiela goes deeper than professional opportunity. Both designers share Belgian origins and educational backgrounds, having graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. This parallel path suggests an intuitive understanding of the conceptual underpinnings that define Margiela’s unique approach to fashion.
While maintaining his role at Diesel, another OTB Group brand, where he has served as creative director since 2020, Martens brings extensive haute couture credentials to his new position. His guest collection for Jean Paul Gaultier in 2022 demonstrated his ability to respect established codes, while introducing his distinctive perspective.
“I am extremely honored to join the amazing Maison Margiela, a truly unique house that has been inspiring the world for decades,” Martens said upon his appointment. His modesty belies an impressive resume that includes revitalizing Diesel and elevating Y/Project to cult status through experimental approaches to construction and silhouette.
The July debut comes amid significant changes in the luxury fashion landscape. Couture Week will feature several other notable moments, including Demna’s final Balenciaga haute couture collection before his transition to Gucci, Iris Van Herpen’s return to the schedule, and Giambattista Valli’s awards ceremony and presentation.
We anticipate how Martens will interpret Maison Margiela’s legacy of deconstruction, conceptualism and avant-garde aesthetics. The house has built its reputation on challenging conventional understandings of clothing since Martin Margiela founded it in 1988. Under Galliano’s direction, theatrical presentations and technical virtuosity brought new attention to the brand.
Martens’ approach differs from Galliano’s dramatic sensibility. Known for complex constructions and experimental techniques, his work often incorporates disparate references from classic tailoring to streetwear, with a particular focus on innovative cuts and exaggerated volumes.
Stefano Rosso, Chairman of Maison Margiela, acknowledged this transitional moment: “Maison Margiela is at a key moment in its history and on a well-defined and solid path. Glenn’s appointment will further build on the heritage of the house, which we are extremely proud to have within our group“.
Martens’ arrival suggests a possible return to the intellectual minimalism that characterized early Margiela collections, albeit filtered through contemporary experimentation. His challenge is to honor the groundbreaking legacy of both Martin Margiela and John Galliano while establishing his own vision.
