Sabato de Sarno, Gucci‘s Creative director, has faced his fair share of criticism since taking the helm last year. Critics have often called his sleek, clean aesthetic too simple, even mundane, in a world where fashion and social media thrive on constant excitement. But de Sarno has remained steadfast, committed to bringing Gucci’s heritage and craftsmanship to the modern wardrobe with instantly recognizable shapes and a striking color palette.
For the Gucci Pre-Fall 2025 collection, de Sarno remained true to his vision, but allowed texture to take center stage. Faux furs, in particular, became a standout element, conveying a luxurious yet relaxed message that is perfectly in line with the overall spirit of the brand. These pieces, ranging from furry trench coats with contrasting GG monogram cuffs to plush intarsia coats, lent a sense of coziness and comfort that was a welcome addition to the collection.
de Sarno’s focus on outerwear was evident, with supple leathers and canvas providing lighter counterpoints to the heavier textures. Silk dresses and scarves added fluidity and enhanced the overall elegance of the collection. The designer also reaffirmed Gucci’s expertise with archival motifs, reworking the iconic Flora pattern into bandana-like graphics on tunics and zippered jackets. Equestrian insignia appeared on foulards tied around the head, complementing the Jackie 1961 and Blondie bags, which remain key accessories.
The collection was inspired by the 1970s, a decade known for its casual grandeur and deeply Italian elegance. de Sarno’s goal was to reinterpret these elements in a fresh and relevant way, avoiding nostalgia. He achieved this through his continued experimentation with “false colors,” pairing recognizable Gucci pieces in unexpected color combinations. For example, ribbed wool “trompe twinsets” in sequined lilac and lemon combinations and cotton candy faux furs in saccharine shades added a playful yet sophisticated touch.
Tailored patch pocket suiting for both genders, cut in off-kilter micro gingham color combinations, further emphasized the collection’s modern twist. A floral scarf pattern from the Florence archives was reconfigured on cotton/wool jacquard work jackets and silk dresses, blending the contemporary with the historic. Broadly proportioned and boldly colored militaria in women’s wear and tonally harmonious Ivy League in men’s wear added depth and variety.
de Sarno’s attention to detail was evident in the silhouette and visual texture of the pieces. Macramé flowers and richly finished leathers demonstrated the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship and quality. A raglan sleeve coat in Prince of Wales check, with a box pleat at the back and side slits, exemplified the collection’s blend of retro and modern elements.
While de Sarno’s approach is highly technical and precise, there is room for more oppositional jolts in future collections. These could serve to frame the intricacies of Gucci’s evolution as he continues to shape it. For now, the Gucci Pre-Fall 2025 collection stands as a testament to de Sarno’s vision, offering a blend of casual grandeur and modern luxury that is both wearable and aspirational.
©Photo: Gucci