At the historic Salle Wagram in Paris, Jun Takahashi unveiled his Undercover Fall/Winter 2025 collection, marking 35 remarkable years in fashion. Rather than create an entirely new concept, Takahashi revisited what he considers his best work – the Fall/Winter 2004 “But Beautiful…Part Parasitic Part Stuffed” collection – and gave it new meaning for today’s audience.
The original 2004 collection was inspired by the distinctive style of Patti Smith, reimagined through the raw plush creations of French artist Anne-Valerie Dupond. For Fall/Winter 2025, Takahashi expanded this vision to include diverse women who share Smith’s fascinating unconventionality.
Undercover Fall/Winter 2025 champions what Takahashi describes as an “unpolished, ugly but beautiful” aesthetic. The street casting showcased women who are unafraid to look different, embrace their quirks and age with a distinctive style.
The runway presentation began dramatically under spotlights with a single white ensemble with floor-length sleeves embellished with gold jewelry that caught the eye with every movement.
Standout pieces included asymmetrical cuts, dramatically shaped puffers and spiral cut Champion track sets in primary colors. Jacquard ensembles dripped with pins, beads, buttons and gold embellishments. Padded coats with uneven finishes and rolled-up, ripped jeans completed many looks, while Dupond supplied monstrous heels that added to the collection’s daring appeal.
Butterfly motifs appeared throughout – on exposed outerwear linings and loungewear prints – while soft coats and patchwork denim showcased Undercover’s classic elements. Structured suits with frayed cotton details provided unexpected contrasts.
The collection ended spectacularly with two black and white winged looks – exaggerated feathered suits resembling wild birds – gliding down the runway to Nina Simone’s “Lilac Wine.”
©Photo: Undercover