A poignant tribute to her late mother, Jasmina Draskovic-Johnson, Ulla Johnson‘s Fall/Winter 2025 collection blends personal history with elevated artistry. Known for her earthy, bohemian elegance, the designer turned to opulent textures and metallics this season, channeling her mother’s gold-leaf paintings into hand-painted gowns and gilded tweeds. The runway revealed a deeper exploration of craft, fusing emotional resonance with technical innovation.
Backstage, Johnson reflected on her mother’s influence. “So much of my work connects to what she taught me,” she said. Her mother’s Serbian heritage and meticulous craftsmanship-layering gold leaf with turpentine’s sharp scene-inspired black evening gowns brushed with gold, gold-shot cloques, and lamé polka dots on tulle. These details whispered of heritage, not loss.
Collaborations anchored the collection’s ambition. French artist Julie Hamisky transformed galvanized flowers into sculptural cuffs and belt buckles, pairing them with shaggy shearling coats and flowing silk gowns. Dutch textile artist Claudy Jongstra contributed felted wool panels of naturally dyed yarns, their mottled textures grounding tailored coats in organic warmth. Italian spray-painted outerwear, each piece unique, underscored Johnson’s commitment to individuality.
While bohemian silhouettes remained – airy crepe dresses, Byzantine brocades – a new glamour emerged. A long-sleeved black crystal-embellished dress marked a departure from Johnson’s earthy past and signaled an embrace of sophisticated embellishment. Front-row retailers took note, as did admirers of crocheted rosettes and sheer bow blouses that balanced delicacy with structure.
Men’s and women’s shearling jackets and colored leathers softened the lineup, while hand-embroidered knits bridged rustic charm with precision. The collection eschewed nostalgia in favor of weaving heritage into forward-thinking design. “Threads of her life live through us,” Johnson said, her voice steady. Fall/Winter 2025 feels less like a farewell than a quiet revolution-one in which craft transcends trend and memory becomes material.
©Photo: Ulla Johnson
