The Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2025 show at London’s Old Bailey, a venue known for its decisive judgments, presented a collection that defied easy categorization, inviting viewers to make their own interpretations of its many layers. Designer Simone Rocha, known for her voluminous silhouettes, offered a more intimate exploration for Spring/Summer 2025, peeling back those layers to reveal the delicate intricacies beneath.
The collection was inspired by the world of dance, specifically the work of choreographers Michael Clark and Pina Bausch. Bausch’s iconic “Nelken,” a ballet named for the carnation that explores the complexities of love, served as a prominent touchstone. Carnations, both literal and abstract, bloomed throughout the collection, appearing as embellishments on tailored black gowns, peeking out of tulle handbags, and woven into the fabric of vests and dresses.
Ballet’s influence extended beyond floral motifs, manifesting itself in the structure of the garments themselves. Knitted wrap cardigans and woolen coats, some with artfully cut sections, evoked the feeling of dancers caught between rehearsals, the lines of the coats mirroring the formality of traditional tails. Tutus, a staple of the ballet world, were incorporated into unexpected pieces, including negligees, blurring the lines between the intimacy of backstage and the public nature of performance.
Rocha’s exploration of intimacy was further emphasized by her choice of fabrics and silhouettes. Luxurious duchesse silks formed ruffled, exaggerated silhouettes for menswear, while sheer gowns revealed clove-decorated underpinnings. The collection marked the debut of Rocha-branded denim, presented in raw, unwashed finishes and tailored workwear shapes, a departure from the designer’s signature ethereal aesthetic.
While the collection celebrated the beauty of delicate detailing and intricate craftsmanship, the limited range of body shapes on the runway stood in stark contrast to the multi-dimensionality of the garments themselves. This lack of representation served as a reminder of the fashion industry’s ongoing struggle to reflect the diversity of its audience.
Despite this shortcoming, the Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2025 collection offered a glimpse into the designer’s evolving vision, a delicate balance between strength and vulnerability, intimacy and outward expression.
©Photo: Simone Rocha