Jil Sander‘s Fall/Winter 2025 show, where Creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier presented their final collection before leaving the brand, became a poignant moment in fashion history, combining strong rebellion with delicate beauty.
Held in a dimly lit venue draped in black velvet curtains, the runway reflected the undercurrent of uncertainty surrounding the designers’ departure. Models walked through the shadowy space in looks that oscillated between austerity and embellishment. Sequined fringes cascaded from strapless dresses and kilts, their metallic sheen catching the light with every step. Studded boots and belts with dangling piercings reinforced a rebellious edge, while tailored leather jackets and vinyl-accented suits introduced a militaristic rigor.
The collection’s tension between hard and soft unfolded through contrasting textures. Plush faux-fur coats brushed against sheer, feathered skirts, and austere wool trenches shared the stage with satin dresses tied with oversized bows. A gradient floral print that faded from bright yellow to deep black elevated silk gowns into wearable works of art that balanced fragility with a defiant edge.
Gender fluidity emerged as a quiet triumph. Kilts appeared unapologetically on both male and female models, and tailored suits eschewed traditional gendered silhouettes. This progressive approach, refined over the Meiers’ eight-year tenure, reflected a broader shift in high fashion toward inclusivity.
Emotions ran high backstage. The designers, dressed head-to-toe in black, hugged colleagues and received flowers from OTB president Renzo Rosso. Their departure, confirmed hours later, marked the end of an era that saw Jil Sander evolve from its minimalist roots to a brand unafraid of complexity.
For Fall/Winter 2025, the Meiers’ parting message was clear: strength lies in embracing contradiction. Her final bow – a white satin dress with a trailing bow – stood as a symbol of hope amid the collection’s darker themes.
©Photo: Jil Sander