For three decades, Dean and Dan Caten have built Dsquared2 into a brand synonymous with unapologetic glamour, camp theatrics, and streetwise luxury – a legacy they amplified for their Fall/Winter 2025 showcase. The Milan-based twins celebrated their 30th anniversary with a riotous ode to New York nightlife, mixing rhinestone cowboys, leather-clad rebels, and Studio 54-era showstoppers in a production as maximalist as their career.
The show opened with rapper Doechii storming the runway in denim hotpants and a corseted parka, her backpack overflowing with cash – a nod to Dsquared2’s roots in subversive downtown energy. Vintage taxis and squad cars spilled out a parade of characters: gym bunnies in cutoff tees, femmes fatales in sequined dresses, and brooding “Brokeback Mountain” archetypes in shearling jackets. Naomi Campbell channeled Tina Turner in a lion-like mane, while Brigitte Nielsen, playing a no-nonsense cop, “arrested” the designers during the finale. The Catens, ever the showmen, appeared handcuffed in tuxedos and platform boots before breaking free to kick off an all-night party.
Beyond the spectacle, the collection balanced archival reinventions with fresh collaborations. Low-rise jeans, trucker hats and slogan tees anchored looks alongside upcycled leather jackets by Bettter and Magliano’s deconstructed tailoring. Vaquera’s contribution added punk asymmetry to sequined eveningwear, while metallic platforms and bondage-inspired harnesses underscored the brand’s rock ‘n’ roll DNA.
A heartfelt tribute to Canadian photographer Julie Enfield – the twins’ early mentor – anchored the extravagance. “You made us feel like we could be somebody,” they wrote in a pre-show letter, acknowledging her influence on their journey from Toronto outsiders to fashion provocateurs.
The Catens’ Fall/Winter 2025 offering proved their knack for blending high-octane entertainment with commercial savvy. Among the leather daddies and go-go boys were wearable staples: tailored blazers, shearling-lined denim, and seductive slip dresses destined for real-world wardrobes. Thirty years on, Dsquared2 remains a masterclass in balancing rebellion with relevance.
©Photo: Dsquared2
