Rokh‘s Fall/Winter 2025 collection is rooted in the fractured elegance of a crumbling Parisian mansion, where cracked plaster and half-finished renovations inspired a vision of clothing caught between construction and collapse. Designer Rok Hwang reimagines the tension of a space frozen in transformation and translates it into garments that challenge the expected.
The result is a collection where structured tailoring collides with voluminous chiffon capes, zippered panels cut through flannel coats, and ballooning skirts defy gravity. For women who are passionate about fashion that dares to disrupt, this season’s offerings are a bold departure from minimalism – a celebration of contrasts that refuses to play it safe.
Hwang’s work has always thrived on duality, but Fall/Winter 2025 sharpened that focus. The collection’s tailored jackets and trench coats-staples of the brand’s DNA-are dissected with precision. Zippers peel back layers to reveal shiny techno-velvet or delicate Edwardian micro-florals, while high-waisted bootcut pants anchor the chaos with retro sophistication. Eveningwear takes a sculptural turn: a slim black dress emerges from the deconstruction of a man’s suit, and a swathed ball gown treads the line between garbage bag rebellion and gothic glamour. Hwang’s talent for subverting tradition is on full display here, offering pieces that feel both timeless and defiantly new.
The show’s setting, a dilapidated 19th-century maison in the midst of a renovation, mirrors the clothes. Raw concrete walls and exposed beams frame garments shaped like ceramics – stiff wool twisted into floral shapes, dotted prints that seem to float, and draped fabrics that cascade like liquid. This interplay of control and spontaneity defines the collection. Fabrics are manipulated to mimic the unpredictability of clay: stiff materials become soft, structured silhouettes dissolve into movement. Even accessories join the conversation, with bags reconstructed from Portobello Market finds and mules that combine artisanal craftsmanship with technical mesh soles.
What sets Rokh apart this season is its refusal to conform. Where others are stripping back, Hwang is layering. His experimentation feels purposeful, not whimsical. A standout example is the hand-ruffled cotton trench, resurrected from deadstock fabric through hours of meticulous reconstruction. It’s fashion as archaeology, digging through the past to build something urgent and relevant. For those drawn to clothes that tell a story without shouting it, Rokh’s Fall/Winter 2025 strikes a chord – a reminder that beauty often lies in the unfinished, the imperfect, and the boldly unresolved.
©Photo: Rokh
