The stage lights dimmed at the Grand Palais Éphémère, the temporary home of Chanel‘s Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture show. The iconic Parisian venue, typically the backdrop for Chanel’s extravagant displays, is currently undergoing renovations. This unexpected change of scenery mirrored the uncertainty surrounding the fashion house itself, following the recent departure of Artistic director Virginie Viard.
Despite the leadership shakeup, the show itself went on. The collection, credited to Chanel’s Fashion Creation Studio, paid homage to the brand’s heritage while offering glimpses of fresh ideas. The opening look, a dramatic black taffeta opera cape with a ruffled neckline, set the tone for a show that balanced whimsy with classic Chanel elegance. Playful details like grosgrain bows and vibrant jewel tones added a touch of youthful energy, a subtle nod to Viard’s influence.
The collection heavily featured the house’s signature skirt suit, reimagined in a variety of textures and colors. Salt and pepper tweeds were adorned with tassel embellishments, while jewel-toned versions sparkled with cabochon stones. A double-breasted duster coat, showcasing a richly textured tweed, exemplified the collection’s focus on luxurious textiles. Bows, a recurring motif, appeared on a bronze lace skirt and a black coatdress, adding a touch of femininity.
Evening wear saw a shift towards experimentation with lacquered jersey, used for the flowing skirts of slip dresses and the ruffled bodices of others.
While the collection itself garnered praise for its beautiful pieces, the shadow of Chanel’s uncertain future loomed large. With no timeline announced for the appointment of a new creative director, the fashion world is abuzz with speculation. Industry insiders whisper names like Hedi Slimane, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Sarah Burton, and Jeremy Scott. Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion and president of Chanel SAS, assures everyone that the brand is “strong” enough to weather this transition.
Read more: Virginie Viard exits Chanel after five years as Artistic director
©Photo: Chanel
