For the Fall/Winter 2021 season, Swedish label Acne Studios reflected over the past year in isolation to reflect how we will finally dress and feel once the pandemic is behind us.
‘’I was thinking about what happens when we emerge from isolation, the same but also somehow different. This collection is a dreamscape that begins with soft pastel colours, before awakening into monochromatic clarity, which is an ode to the white or black clothes worn for rituals in our life cycle, like weddings and funerals’’, said creative director Jonny Johansson.
This season, he focused on wellbeing. Constructed silhouettes, soft and worn fabrics, and a touch of inspiration from creative director Jonny Johansson’s stay at his Swedish country house create an eye-appealing evolution moving from a dreamscape into an awakened reality.
The garments were mostly loosened or oversized, as exemplified by the red sweater with elongated sleeves. Silhouettes were created with wrapping and draping techniques. The palette was mainly composed of pastel shades of pink, blue, and cream, along with darker, earthy tones and a variety of floral patterns that evoked a balance between sweetness and elegance. Many pieces were made of textured knit fabrics that resembled teddy bears, with ragged hems and off-kilter buttonings. Other creations looked like shredded crochet, giving it an even more relaxed feeling.
The soft silhouettes were set off by chunky footwear: cowhide boots and clogs that put a distinctly Swedish spin on comfort dressing. And in lieu of handbags, models carried artist Apollinaria Broche’s slightly unsettling ceramic dogs. Johansson compares them to ‘’an imaginary friend from childhood’’, but worn with pyjama-like ensembles, they can’t help but resemble stuffed animals. Miniature versions of her designs appeared attached to earrings, chokers, and footwear.