For his Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Erdem Moralioğlu delves into the intertwined lives of Radclyffe Hall and Una, Lady Troubridge, weaving a sartorial narrative that celebrates their individualities and the nuances of their relationship. Hall, the author of the groundbreaking lesbian novel “The Well of Loneliness,” famously adopted masculine attire, while Troubridge, a sculptor, gravitated towards the flowing silhouettes of the era. This contrast becomes the cornerstone of Moralioğlu’s collection, a captivating study of juxtaposed aesthetics.
The show opens with a statement – a slouchy, double-breasted pinstripe suit, a collaboration with Savile Row’s esteemed Sexton’s. The sharp tailoring, a hallmark of menswear, is then countered by the ethereal shimmer of a flapper dress, its hem a froth of movement. This interplay of structure and fluidity underscores the collection’s exploration of gender expression.
Moralioğlu doesn’t shy away from symbolism. Monocles, dangling from buttonholes, and embroidered violets nestled amongst pinstripes serve as subtle nods to lesbian love, a coded language woven into the very fabric of the garments. The collection is rich with covetable pieces. Tuxedo jackets, some adorned with cape-like layers, are sprinkled with crystal embroideries reminiscent of vintage necklaces. Dresses, imbued with a sense of ease and effortlessness, feel less tethered to a specific period than some of Moralioğlu’s past work. Denim, unexpected in its lightness, shapes panniered dresses, while cyanotype prints of 1920s lace lend an ethereal touch to loose slips and shifts.
Accessories amplify the collection’s message. Monk strap shoes and loafers, traditionally masculine silhouettes, are elevated with bold tassels and metallic finishes. Even Moralioğlu’s debut handbag, the aptly named Bloom bag, speaks to the collection’s theme. Crafted from a single piece of leather, its metal handle, a delicate stem culminating in a rosebud, embodies both strength and fragility.
©Photo: Erdem