Daniel Lee’s latest collection for Burberry Fall/Winter 2025 strips away excess to celebrate the brand’s heritage of protective outerwear and British eccentricity. Set against the grand backdrop of Tate Britain, the show blended stately sophistication with rugged practicality, anchored by trenches, greatcoats and tartans reimagined for modern wardrobes.
The runway echoed the atmospheric tension of movies like “Saltburn,” where aristocratic chaos meets rural tranquility. Models and British actors – including Richard E. Grant and Lesley Manville – strutted in corduroys, jodhpurs and kilts, paired with leather riding boots that brushed past the thighs. Outerwear dominated: quilted trenches in floral ikat prints, fur-lined bombers and capes embroidered with delicate motifs nodded to grand mansion interiors. Leather jackets hand-tooled with botanical patterns added a bohemian edge, while fringed scarves, oversized and rugged, evoked the windswept Yorkshire moors.
Lee‘s palette leaned toward earthy tones – forest greens, burgundies and chocolate browns – reflecting the muted hues of winter landscapes. Velvet damask suits and ruffled Victorian-inspired nightgowns layered under coats emphasized warmth without sacrificing elegance. For men, silk jacquard pajama sets and knit-collared wool coats redefined relaxed luxury, while for women, shearling bombers and parkas were generously cut from buttery leather.
The collection’s commercial appeal shone through in accessible details: plaid pleated skirts, riding boots styled for urban streets, and weekend bags emblazoned with Burberry’s iconic tartan. Even the knight motif, a recurring symbol in Lee’s work, felt less like fantasy and more like a metaphor for Burberry’s new direction-armored yet adaptable, rooted in tradition yet forging ahead.
Backstage, Lee expressed optimism about the brand’s direction, emphasizing outerwear as Burberry’s cornerstone. “The pieces are made for movement, for all terrains and weather,” he said, reflecting on walks through his native Yorkshire. The result is a lineup that balances storytelling with wearability, proving that heritage can feel fresh when stripped down to its rugged, weatherproof core.
©Photo: Burberry
