Francesco Risso, the ever-unpredictable Creative director of Marni, presented his Fall/Winter 2024 collection in a unique and thought-provoking setting: a paper-lined cave beneath Milan’s Stazione Centrale. This unconventional space mirrored the collection itself, an exploration of deconstruction and rawness, marked by a surprising guest and a deliberate absence of visual references.
Risso’s creative process for this collection was as intriguing as the final product. In an attempt to eliminate external influences, he and his team covered their studio entirely in white paper, creating a blank canvas devoid of images, mood boards, and any preconceived notions. This “almost animal state,” as Risso described it, aimed to strip bare the essence of design and prioritize the “soul of the shape.”
The resulting collection embodied this philosophy. Simple geometric shapes like cocoons, trapezes, and tabards were brought to life through innovative techniques. Stiff fabrics, hairy textures, and bold hand-painted details evoked a sense of raw beauty, reminiscent of Van Gogh’s “The Starry Night.” Risso challenged expectations further with unconventional materials, transforming shearling into both rugged coats and barrister-wig-like headpieces.
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The collection wasn’t all about untamed textures; it also featured sleek, contrasting elements. Risso balanced the rawness with polished leather capes and futuristic, buttonless men’s suits. This interplay between the wild and the refined further emphasized the collection’s unique character.
While the collection itself garnered much praise, the presence of a controversial celebrity guest, Kanye West, overshadowed the presentation for some. This unexpected element, however, further underscored the show’s unconventional spirit, highlighting Risso’s commitment to defying expectations.
Read more: GCDS Fall/Winter 2024 – Milan Fashion Week
©Photo: Marni
