Thom Browne, the American designer known for his sharp tailoring and playful gray flannel suiting, took a dramatic turn for his Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection. Forgoing his signature fabrics, Browne plunged headfirst into the very essence of haute couture: unbleached muslin.
The invitation itself hinted at the unconventional theme. Guests received personalized muslin coats, foreshadowing the raw, unfinished aesthetic that would dominate the runway. Inside the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, the seats were draped in the same natural material, further emphasizing Browne’s focus on the foundation of couture craftsmanship.
Thom Browne’s dedication to this theme was meticulous. The 48 looks that emerged were a celebration of the “work-in-progress,” each garment meticulously crafted from various weights of muslin. From lightweight muslin woven into tweed to heavier versions used for dramatic deconstructed tailoring, the fabric took center stage.
Technical mastery was evident throughout. A single gold-beaded jacket, for instance, required a staggering 11,000 hours of handwork by 42 artisans. Even the yarn for a knitted cardigan was made from muslin wrapped around wire, showcasing Browne’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of the material.
Browne subtly incorporated the upcoming Paris Olympics into the designs. Models paused mid-runway, their chalky white outfits mirroring the museum’s walls, their faces framed by embroidery sampler “masks.” Gold bullion embroideries referenced athletic uniforms, while a bustier dress featured a fascinating juxtaposition: the muscular system rendered in blood-red beads on one side, contrasted by delicate muslin pleats on the other. The show culminated in three magnificent jackets entirely embroidered in bronze, silver, and gold – a nod to Olympic medals.
Browne’s aim, he explained, was to celebrate the “beauty of the hand, rather than a machine.” In an age increasingly dominated by artificial intelligence, his dedication to meticulous hand craftsmanship felt particularly poignant. The collection served as a powerful reminder of the artistry and dedication that lie at the heart of true haute couture.
Read more: Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024
©Photo: Thom Browne
