Jun Takahashi presented the Undercover Spring-Summer 2026 collection through an unconventional lens, continuing his decades-long fascination with Dupond. The designer’s latest collection follows the trajectory established during Fall/Winter 2025, while also paying homage to his 2004 work – a pivotal moment when he envisioned Patti Smith wearing garments inspired by Dupond’s unsettling plush sculptures. While other designers pursue perfection, Takahashi finds value in distortion and irregularity.
The collection unfolded in a showroom setting rather than on a runway, which altered the way viewers experienced the garments. The models appeared relaxed, and espresso flowed freely. However, something was missing without the theatrical presentation format that typically amplifies Takahashi’s vision. This intimate presentation allowed for a closer examination of the craftsmanship but sacrificed the emotional impact of seeing these pieces in motion.
Dupond’s handiwork took center stage in a black dress adorned with anatomically correct internal organs crafted from fabric and stuffing. The garment featured lungs, intestines, and a precisely positioned red heart, all rendered in satin and felt. At the back, Dupond attached a padded spinal cord and sacrum, which was decorated with gold naval blazer buttons – an unexpected detail that elevated the piece from costume to wearable art. Small stuffed creatures appeared on the shoes: a frog on one and an animal skull on the other.
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The remaining pieces offered more accessible interpretations of Takahashi’s playful approach to construction. Wavy hems appeared throughout, rejecting the clean lines that most designers favor. Button placements seemed deliberately chaotic, arranged without regard for traditional garment standards. One fleece bore the raised outline of a heart, and pants and shorts were coated in feather-like nylon in scarlet and black.
Several looks challenged conventional dressing through trompe l’œil techniques. A blue cardigan, Breton T-shirt, and wide black combat pants appeared separate but were actually stitched together into one garment, which would be practical for those who struggle with morning decisions. Jackets featured mismatched buttons and intentionally frayed edges. The leather cowboy boots looked as though they had shrunk, with wavy lines that defied logic meandering up their shafts.
Takahashi introduced a new embroidered character: an angel with three arms and two unusually shaped heads. This creature appeared on accessories, adding another layer to the designer’s expanding universe of odd imagery. Dark trousers had exposed seams covered in printed floral fabric, and purple crewneck sweaters had crinkled fabric peeking out from beneath them as if the lining had slipped out.
The collection will reportedly appear in an upcoming Undercover film, extending the life of these garments beyond their initial presentation. After years of collaboration, Takahashi’s commitment to Dupond’s aesthetic – one that finds beauty in Frankenstein-style stitching and sinister undertones – remains unwavering. His approach suggests that clothing need not be pristine or predictable to be desirable.
