Milan, the city of timeless elegance and youthful energy, became the muse for David Koma’s debut as Blumarine‘s Creative director. Known for his sculptural and glamorous aesthetic, the Georgian-born designer has infused the Blumarine Pre-Fall 2025 collection with a sense of whimsy, nostalgia and modern sophistication. Drawing inspiration from the vibrant streets of Milan and the brand’s rich heritage, Koma has created a collection that balances playful humor with luxurious craftsmanship, offering a fresh yet faithful take on Blumarine’s DNA.
Koma’s ties to Milan run deep. Before joining Blumarine, he spent time exploring the city’s neighborhoods and immersed himself in its unique blend of tradition and modernity. This experience shaped his vision for the collection, which reflects the multigenerational appeal of both the brand and the city. “Milanese style is young and practical, yet classy and elegant,” said Koma. It’s about updating traditional pieces with a modern twist.” This philosophy is evident in his approach to the Pre-Fall 2025 collection, which reimagines classic silhouettes with unexpected materials and bold details.
The collection opens with a nod to Blumarine’s playful spirit, with fluffy and furry accents adding a touch of whimsy. T-shirts with “Woof” and “Miao” slogans and embroidered puppies and kittens on lingerie pay homage to the brand’s lighthearted charm. Koma was also inspired by Helmut Newton’s iconic ’90s campaign for Blumarine, which featured models surrounded by dogs. This theme is carried through the lookbook, where borzois and bull terriers share the spotlight with the models, adding a sense of regality and theatricality to the imagery.
Beyond the playful elements, Koma’s collection showcases his talent for tailoring and his ability to elevate everyday pieces into luxurious statements. A classic little black dress is reimagined in scuba fabric, while a red carpet-worthy gown is crafted from raw-edged denim, combining sophistication with an edgy twist. The brand’s signature roses appear on ruffled evening minidresses in soft, stretchy viscose for a modern update. Koma’s sculptural touch is also evident in sleek pantsuits embellished with the Blumarine logo or rose cutouts, offering a sophisticated take on power dressing for the modern woman.
The color palette reflects the duality of the collection, with Blumarine’s signature pastels juxtaposed against a backdrop of black, white, gray and military green. This interplay of softness and structure is a recurring theme, as seen in floral prints and lace panels paired with precise tailoring. Koma’s ability to balance these elements creates a collection that feels both nostalgic and forward-thinking, capturing the essence of Blumarine while pushing it into new territory.
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Accessories play a key role in the Pre-Fall 2025 collection, with leopard-print knee-high boots, furry mules and sheepskin-trimmed messenger bags adding a touch of drama to the lineup. Koma also introduced pet accessories, signaling a deeper dive into lifestyle categories. Attention to detail and quality was evident throughout, from cashmere daywear to marabou-trimmed cardigans, reflecting Koma’s commitment to elevating the brand’s craftsmanship.
Koma’s debut at Blumarine honors the brand’s heritage while infusing it with his own vision. By blending humor, luxury and modernity, he has created a collection that resonates with Blumarine’s multi-generational audience. As he puts it, “The Blumarine woman may be the queen of style, but she never takes herself too seriously.” This balance of playfulness and sophistication is what makes the Pre-Fall 2025 collection a standout moment for the brand.
©Photo: Blumarine
