Alessandro Michele’s second ready-to-wear collection for Valentino unfolded in a gender-neutral public restroom bathed in crimson light, a stark departure from traditional runway settings. The Fall/Winter 2025 showcase merged bold themes of performative identity and modern anxiety, reflecting Michele’s signature maximalism while challenging the norms of luxury.
Guests entered through bathroom stalls into a dystopian space pulsating with strobe lights and throbbing electronic beats. Michele cited David Lynch as inspiration, though the eerie ambiance was reminiscent of Kubrick’s “The Shining.” Models emerged from cubicles in states of deliberate undress – lace bodysuits undone at the crotch, slouchy tweed pants with raw hems, and balaclavas replacing polished hairstyles. The setting underscored Michele’s fascination with intimacy as spectacle, a nod to social media’s blurring of public and private spheres.
Michele reworked Valentino’s legacy of jet-set elegance into wearable rebellion. Tailored skirt suits and velvet column dresses-reminiscent of the brand’s “Chic Savages” era in the 1980s-were paired with baggy jeans or layered over lace tights. A collaboration with Vans added a streetwise edge, while slouchy knits and faux-fur jackets hinted at postmodern nonchalance. Eveningwear stole the show: a gold lamé ruffled gown with a chartreuse and lilac lace train offered an opulent contrast to the collection’s grunge undertones.
The designer defended the collection’s provocative elements by recalling the cultural openness of Italy in the 1970s. “Mediterranean culture is about being naked,” he noted, criticizing Instagram’s censorship of the body. Sheer tops and plunging necklines paid homage to this philosophy, while a black dress with a thigh-high slit balanced sensuality with restraint.
Michele continued his exploration of gender fluidity, styling men in pussy-bow blouses and suits with exaggerated shoulders. Gray tweed jackets were layered over lace turtlenecks, subverting traditional masculinity without sacrificing sophistication.
The show also served as Michele’s rebuttal to the critics of his debut. Dropped trouser hems and unfinished hems symbolized a rejection of perfectionism, while porcelain cat motifs (carried over from Spring/Summer 2025) hinted at self-referential whimsy. “I’m manipulating the past to make it now,” he explained, acknowledging the challenge of honoring Valentino’s decorative history amid today’s anarchic visual culture.
©Photo: Valentino