| Balenciaga has appointed British designer Martine Rose as its new Creative director following the departure of Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli in November 2026. Rose will take up the position on November 16th, 2026, and will be based in Paris. Piccioli joined Balenciaga in July 2025 after 25 years at Valentino. Rose founded her independent label in 2007. |
Balenciaga has confirmed the departure of Pierpaolo Piccioli and announced Martine Rose as his successor, bringing another change to the creative leadership of the Parisian fashion house. The appointment follows months of speculation about Piccioli’s future and comes as parent company Kering continues to review the direction of its luxury brands.
Piccioli joined Balenciaga in July 2025, having been appointed two months earlier. His departure comes after less than 18 months in the position and just four collections, including his first couture presentation. The announcement was made by the house on Thursday, with Kering confirming Rose’s appointment the following day.
Gianfranco Gianangeli, president and chief executive officer of Balenciaga, expressed gratitude for Piccioli’s contribution. He credited the designer with reaffirming the house’s couture origins through his approach to craftsmanship, construction and creativity. Kering CEO Luca de Meo also praised Piccioli, describing him as an exceptional couturier and creative talent.
Before arriving at Balenciaga, Piccioli had spent 25 years at Valentino. He became co-Creative director in 2008 alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri, who subsequently left for Dior in 2016. Piccioli then assumed sole creative responsibility, remaining at the Italian fashion house until March 2024.
His appointment at Balenciaga represented a considerable change from the direction established by his predecessor, Demna. During nearly a decade at the house, the Georgian designer developed a distinctive approach based on oversized proportions, streetwear references and unconventional presentations. He left in 2025 to take charge of Gucci.
Piccioli introduced his first collection for Balenciaga in October 2025 under the title “The Heartbeat.” The collection opened with a reinterpretation of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s sack dress and included colourful gowns, sculptural skirts, leather jackets, chinos and everyday t-shirts. Rather than concentrating exclusively on the house’s more experimental reputation, Piccioli explored its historical references through a more refined and approachable perspective.
His first couture collection followed in July 2026. It placed particular emphasis on the house’s atelier, technical expertise and the architectural principles established by its founder. Despite these efforts, his collections received mixed reactions, and speculation about his departure had circulated since September.
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The appointment of Martine Rose introduces a designer with an established connection to Balenciaga. During Demna’s early years at the house, Rose worked closely with him on menswear. Her contribution is widely associated with the development of oversized, distressed and vintage-inspired silhouettes that became important elements of Balenciaga’s contemporary identity.
Founded in 2007, her independent label has developed a distinctive approach to menswear and womenswear. Her designs combine urban references, unconventional proportions and gender-fluid silhouettes. The designer has also worked on collaborative projects with Supreme, Nike, Napapijri and Tommy Hilfiger.
In 2023, Rose became the first guest Creative director at Clarks and also participated as a guest menswear designer at Pitti Uomo. Her work has attracted a diverse following, including musicians, actors and public figures such as Drake, Naomi Campbell, Kendrick Lamar and Timothée Chalamet.
Rose will be based in Paris and officially begin her new position on November 16th, 2026. In her statement, she described the appointment as a privilege and acknowledged the responsibility of working for a house shaped by several influential designers. She also expressed her intention to respect its history while developing her own interpretation of its identity.
The move comes at an important moment for her independent business. Rose had to put her Fall 2026 collection on hold while addressing the separation of her label from Tomorrow, the company that previously held a majority stake. The collection, which was not put into production, included references to 1990s fashion, lingerie, denim and more elaborate eveningwear.
The appointment also needs to be understood within Kering’s broader restructuring efforts. The luxury group has experienced weaker demand across several of its businesses and is seeking to improve the relationship between creative direction, product development and commercial performance.
Its third-quarter 2026 results showed revenue of €3.35 billion, broadly stable at reported exchange rates but down 1% on a comparable basis. Gucci, its largest brand, recorded a 6% decline in sales at constant exchange rates, highlighting the difficulties facing the group.
Against this background, changing Balenciaga’s creative leadership represents more than a straightforward succession. Rose brings a perspective rooted in contemporary British fashion and an understanding of the house’s recent history.
Her appointment also raises questions about the balance between Balenciaga’s established couture heritage and the more unconventional identity developed under Demna. Whether she can bring these elements together while establishing a commercially successful direction will become clearer with her first collections.
For now, Kering has confirmed its choice, but the next stage of Balenciaga’s creative development remains to be seen.