Acne Studios‘ Spring/Summer 2025 collection, presented in Paris amidst a downpour, showcased a playful and imperfect aesthetic. Designer Jonny Johansson, inspired by artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase and the “Brat Summer” trend popularized by Charli XCX, sought to create a collection that reflected a sense of comfortable domesticity with a touch of the alien. This inspiration was evident in the show’s setting, a lime green tent filled with Lyndon Chase’s soft sculptures and furniture covered in quirky drawings exploring queer black identities through domesticity. The artist’s presence in the front row, barefoot, underscored the collection’s unconventional spirit. Celebrities such as Amandla Stenberg, Sasha Calle and Quintessa Swindell, who were also in attendance, embodied the brand’s eclectic style.
The collection itself was a mix of contrasting elements. Bulbous, foam-bonded jeans with exaggerated hips paired with latex polka-dot tees or spongy croc-embossed jackets offered a sculptural rigidity. These were juxtaposed with more fluid pieces such as undone dresses made from tank tops and ribbed undershirts, and flowing chiffon maxi dresses in upholstery prints. This duality, which Johansson described as “domestic and alien,” echoed his earlier exploration of interior design influences during the pandemic, but with a renewed focus on warping and magnifying familiar silhouettes.
Knitwear ranged from shrunken mohair cardigans to oversized crochet tops and tea cozy skirts. This playful softness and naiveté marked a departure from Acne Studios‘ previous, edgier image. Last year’s campaign, which featured Kylie Jenner covered in dirt and oil, contrasted sharply with this season’s softer, more reassuring aesthetic. This shift likely reflects the current economic climate and a broader industry trend toward reassuring messaging.
The playful spirit of the collection extended to the styling. Models sported crushed hairstyles and rimless glasses reminiscent of Johansson’s childhood piano teacher, adding to the impression of playfully oversized clothes that have yet to be fully grown into. Tailoring was amplified, knitwear artfully disarranged, and shrunken tops frayed. Standout pieces included meta mom jeans, cinched at the waist and dramatically flared at the hips, paired with fitted tops in floral waxed tablecloth prints. Eveningwear included jersey dresses with angular, layered stitching and a charmingly awkward lampshade gown adorned with bows. The collection as a whole felt both familiar and subtly subversive, a testament to Johansson’s willingness to experiment and embrace imperfection. The collaboration with Charli XCX and Troye Sivan for their “Sweat” tour suggests that this playful “Brat” era is just beginning for Acne Studios.