In what is now a deeply rooted tradition, Tod’s chose once again the iconic Villa Necchi Campiglio as the splendid backdrop for their Spring/Summer 2024 collection, a choice that has become so emblematic of the brand, a change of venue would likely spark an uproar amongst fashion devotees. Recognized as an architectural marvel of modernist design, the villa not only imbues grandeur but also resonates perfectly with Creative director Walter Chiapponi’s reinvigoration of Tod’s timeless aesthetic.
Introduced under the evocative theme “An Italian Garden”, the latest collection, presented within the villa’s breathtaking, glass-enclosed conservatory turned chic lounge, represents Chiapponi’s most succinct menswear statement to date. Stripped of all excess and shaped with the rigor of ’60s cinema a la Michelangelo Antonioni, the collection echoes an austere yet effortlessly stylish elegance.
“When I envision the Tod’s man for this collection, I see him as trapped in an Antonioni movie”, Chiapponi explained during a preview, referring to the lean, crisp silhouettes that defined the era’s aesthetic. “There’s a necessary stripping away of the superfluous to reveal an essence of severe elegance, lightly offset by an undercurrent of casual ease”.
Suffused throughout the collection, an ethereal dance of subtle geometric patterns, described by Chiapponi as “almost like shadows”, brings a thoughtful break from its minimalist ethos. This design choice, he insists, aligns with the collective yearning for clarity and sincerity in our current times. “The collection takes on a more acute attitude, more deliberated and defined”, he elaborated.
The collection makes a bold statement by reimagining casualwear with a sartorial lens. Cabans, sporty cropped blousons, anoraks – all have been reinvented with a dash of formality. In a nod to the heritage of Tod’s, the ubiquity of sneakers has been replaced by sophisticated footwear, channeling the artistry of fine, soft Italian shoes.
The Tod’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection plays with the contrast of leather and premium, mostly organic fabrics, while the color palette leans towards slightly cooler, subdued hues. “There’s a sort of precision in the collection that might seem aloof but is, in fact, incredibly chic”, Chiapponi asserts. He rounds off his vision, saying, “Essentiality is the only path to penetrate to the heart of things”.
With its refined simplicity and deft balance of formality and casualness, Tod’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection serves as a testament to the designer’s drive for uncomplicated elegance. Chiapponi’s “Italian Garden” promises not only an appealing escape into Italian style and culture but also an introspective journey into the heart of minimalist luxury.
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