After Lady Gaga donned her black fitted jacket and red silk faille ball skirt Schiaparelli Haute Couture dress with a golden dove brooch to sing the American anthem at Joe Biden’s presidential inauguration ceremony, designer Daniel Roseberry knew his tenure-defining moment has been made – he hasn’t hit the two-year mark at Schiaparelli yet.
But before he had another major moment in the spotlight over the holidays, when Kim Kardashian West wore his molded leather six-pack corset and knotted silk skirt for a little Christmas soirée en famille.
It’s not hard to understand why celebrities flock to Roseberry. Since arriving at Schiaparelli in 2019 he has emerged as one of the most flamboyant designers on the Paris scene, using bold volume and chunky hardware to challenge the traditional image of haute couture.
In his third collection for the French Maison, Roseberry wanted to ‘’challenge the idea of what couture should be, with clothes that respect the tradition of this maison and the art behind it, without clichés associated with the genre’’.
Schiaparelli’s ambition was to experiment, not to respect the canonical rules of costume and to upset the preconceptions of shape, colors, iconography, and materials.
‘’We started by discarding the usual couture silhouettes. I wanted to take pieces that ‘shouldn’t’ be shown in this context. The pants, a bomber jacket, to invite people to see them in a new guise’’, said Daniel Roseberry.
Irreverence and trompe-l’œil dialogue with the same language, shaping golden and oversized ornamental elements.
‘’I wanted to push the idea of oversized jewelry in these barbaric proportions, and really assuming that most of this was going to be seen digitally, create things that were intentionally meant to be seen digitally as well’’, he explained.
