As luxury fashion faces a shift toward minimalism, Schiaparelli‘s Spring/Summer 2025 Haute Couture collection defies expectations with a lavish celebration of historical artistry and technical innovation. Creative director Daniel Roseberry unveiled a lineup rooted in opulent silhouettes, reviving corsetry and turn-of-the-century embroidery to create a vision that fuses antiquity with modernity.
The hourglass shape dominated the runway, echoing the house’s iconic Shocking fragrance bottle. Corsets with exaggerated hips and sculpted waists appeared in pale satin, nude mesh and pearl gray embroidered trains, fusing futuristic structure with Gilded Age grandeur. Roseberry’s rejection of simplicity as a synonym for modernism fueled designs like a white bodice paired with black trousers whose angular hips evoked avant-garde sculpture, and a draped tulle gown with boning that transformed models into living Art Deco forms.
Inspiration came from a visit to an antique shop that housed 1920s ribbons, which materialized in tiered ribbon gowns that shimmered with movement. Dusty nudes, faded greens, and burnt saffron tones lent warmth to the collection, while hidden neoprene and Ultrasuede construction created seamless curves reminiscent of aeronautical design. The final piece, a corseted gown in vintage brown moiré silk ribbon, exemplified Roseberry’s ability to rework historical fragments into groundbreaking couture.
Titled “Icarus,” the collection framed haute couture as an escape from reality rather than a cautionary tale. Roseberry closed the show to Carly Simon’s “Let the River Run,” a nod to resilience and joy amid global turmoil. Critics may debate the implications of corsetry’s revival, but the technical mastery – invisible padding, hand-formed details and sculptural silhouettes – cemented Schiaparelli’s role as a pioneer of wearable art.
©Photo: Schiaparelli