Alessandro Michele’s debut Valentino Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 collection fused Roman grandeur with cinematic drama, blending archival craftsmanship and 21st century audacity in a spectacle that left fashion editors breathless. Titled “Vertigineux,” the show celebrated the house’s heritage while redefining opulence for the metaverse age.
Known for his eclectic vision, Michele immersed himself in Valentino’s archives and the expertise of its artisans-many with decades of experience-to create garments that transcend time. Crinolines swelled beneath sleek taffeta gowns, harlequin motifs danced across tufted tulle, and velvet bodices contrasted with billowing sleeves reminiscent of Renaissance portraiture. Each piece carried layers of meaning, from samurai armor-inspired embroidery to nods to Fellini’s surreal Rome.
The presentation began with a darkened room where models appeared beneath scrolling text projections, their outfits annotated with cryptic phrases like “petticoat, tundra, eschatology.” A black taffeta gown, deceptively simple, took 860 hours of handwork – a quiet rebellion against the fleeting pace of fast fashion. Michele emphasized tactile creation in a digital age: “This job needs your time, your body, your brain.”
Historical echoes abounded. Georgian panniers inflated silhouettes, while ruffled collars and tapestry florals collided with the spontaneity of the flapper era. A tiered ivory lace column honored founder Valentino Garavani, and a scarlet moiré robe mirrored papal regalia, a nod to Rome’s ecclesiastical allure. Michele’s mother, a costume designer, inspired a delicate chiffon number called “My Mother,” which combined personal history with cinematic fantasy.
The finale was electrifying, with models racing under strobe lights, crinolines and capes swirling like storm clouds to Prokofiev’s Dance of the Knights. The effect was less runway show than fever dream-a whirlwind of craft and chaos.
Michele rejected the title of couturier, presenting himself instead as a storyteller with an imagination. His collection questioned how clothing occupies space, both physically and emotionally. Oversized skirts challenged minimalism, while minimal make-up and center-parted hair emphasized the wearer’s presence. “You can be invasive without that big dress,” he mused, celebrating women who command attention through sheer authenticity.
©Photo: Valentino