As the summer of 2024 approaches, the world of high fashion turns its gaze to Berlin. Here, Anthony Vaccarello offers a new chapter in his ongoing global journey with the Spring/Summer 2024 collection for Saint Laurent. From the ethereal Parisian chic of winter to the exotic charm of Morocco, this year’s men’s show takes us to the heart of Berlin’s Neue Nationalgalerie, resonating with the energy of this iconic symbol of classical modernism.
The Neue Nationalgalerie, a remarkable brainchild of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, serves as the backdrop for Vaccarello’s vision. It provides a sharp contrast to the desert hues of Morocco or the metropolitan allure of Paris, symbolizing a more assertive and edgy version of Saint Laurent for the season.
In this milieu, Vaccarello begins to unravel the narrative of a contemporary man’s identity. He seeks to define what Saint Laurent could mean for a modern man whose Spring/Summer wardrobe is shaped by the brand’s womenswear line and vice versa. Predictably, immaculate tailoring is the cornerstone of the collection, yet the designer brilliantly blends structure with a sense of airiness.
“The collection encapsulates a sense of duality; light yet voluminous”, Vaccarello affirms. High-waisted trousers with structured pleats and wide shoulders echo the brand’s storied past, while still capturing the essence of today’s man.
Vaccarello’s iconic Saint Laurent tuxedo reinterprets tradition with a satin tank top that softly skims the body. He then ventures into unconventional territory, manipulating the typically feminine couture material – Mousseline de Soie – to manifest its semi-transparent, gauzy qualities. It creates an alluring balance of seductiveness and formality, a testament to Vaccarello’s ongoing evolution of his distinct Saint Laurent aesthetic.
“In Berlin, a city teeming with diverse expressions of identity, we found the perfect stage for our new narrative”, Vaccarello shares. The marble-like structured shoulders are reminiscent of the iconic columns of the Neue Nationalgalerie, contrasting starkly with the slim, belted waist and billowing trousers.
The Saint Laurent Men’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection marries the extravagant with the sensual. Silk sarongs draped like feminine gowns add a touch of softness, while off-the-shoulder pieces strike a balance between glamour and casual comfort. Silk wraps the body, exposing collarbones and creating a fresh, more elegant identity.
Footwear, too, adheres to Vaccarello’s distinct aesthetic. Sleek heeled boots, in glossy patent leather and prestige material, subtly complement the collection, which feels more romantic, more relaxed, more open, and more progressive than ever.
Half a decade into his tenure at Saint Laurent, Vaccarello has hit his stride. The key takeaway from the Spring/Summer 2024 show? The ability to show plenty by wrapping up in so much. The Saint Laurent attitude is on full display, a quality that, in and of itself, has become the ultimate selling point for the House.
Read more: Saint Laurent’s upcoming menswear show to grace Berlin’s Neue Nationalgalerie
