Now that the pandemic restrictions are being loosened for good, Erdem Moralioglu tried to capture London’s new air of liberty, sending out a collection which embodied Berlin’s progressive cultural spirit in the 1930s: the painters Jeanne Mammen and Elfriede Lohse-Wächtler, the dancers Anita Berber and Valeska Gert, and photographer Madame d’Ora, each pioneered a particular vein of avant-garde expression.
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He imagined them floating around a nightclub dressed in their own clothes, and men’s tailoring.
Sequin-pavéd dresses that clattered when models walked, chubby coats or long dresses made from tightly packed black or white rosettes, transparent black dresses hand-sewn from tulle strips and embroidered with tiny pearls or sparkly styles that recalled the designs of Fortuny.
The Fall/Winter 2022 collection explored this mood of high jinks on the brink of change. Daywear and eveningwear, womenswear and menswear, formal and casual clothing, were juxtaposed and interwoven.
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