Sabato de Sarno’s growing confidence at the helm of Gucci was on full display at the house’s Spring/Summer 2025 menswear show in Milan. Drawing inspiration from both the art world and surf culture, the collection was a joyful explosion of color, print, and relaxed silhouettes that captured a sense of freedom and adventure.
Shown at the Triennale di Milano, the same venue currently exhibiting the work of designer Gae Aulenti, the collection built upon signature elements de Sarno has been establishing, from the “rotten green” hue of a leather coat to the 3D interlocking-G mesh of surf slippers. Bold new prints featuring palms, dolphins and hibiscus leaves made a splash in multiple colorways across camp collar shirts, chore jackets and more. de Sarno played with texture, rendering the prints in everything from beaded fringe to brocade to paillettes.
The designer’s Neapolitan roots shone through in breezy cotton poplin jackets, their lightness of construction belying their impeccable tailoring. Denim pieces were elevated with hibiscus jacquard, while oversized work shirts curved beautifully in the back. Eye-catching accessories abounded, from spongy sunglass straps to color-soaked crossbody bags to modular clusters of bamboo-linked charms.
While surf-inspired, this was not a literal interpretation – the chic almond-toe horsebit boots made that clear. Rather, de Sarno used the aquatic motifs as a jumping off point to explore frictions and commonalities in contemporary expressions of gender, continuing to carve his own unique path at Gucci. In the end, it was a collection that, in the designer’s own words, represented “freedom to combine my thoughts and actions, and let my heart follow exactly what I love.” Mission joyfully accomplished.
Read more: Thailand’s rising star Billkin joins Gucci as the newest brand ambassador
©Photo: Gucci
