In an era where fashion echoes the call for restraint and simplicity, the Etro Spring/Summer 2024 collection offers a refreshing take on refinement. Marco de Vincenzo, the maestro behind the collection, traverses the intersection of tradition and modernity, composing a symphony of subdued hues and patterns that speak volumes in an era of noise.
In our pursuit for novelty, the fashion industry often wrestles with the challenge of retaining its vibrant essence amidst the clamor for understated elegance. Brands like Etro, renowned for their visually stunning aesthetic marked by vivid colors and intricate patterns, grapple with this balance. Yet in the Spring/Summer 2024 collection, Marco de Vincenzo navigates this terrain deftly.
On a fated visit to an antique bookstore in his native Messina, de Vincenzo chanced upon a vintage tome replete with symbolic images of esoteric arcanas from the 17th century. The intriguing duality of hidden meanings expressed through such imagery struck a chord. He mused, “They were using figurations to express concepts or hidden meanings. I know it may sound weird, but those images made me think about TikTok, memes, GIFs, which are our non-verbal way of communicating through visuals”. Indeed, in a digital age where we often communicate through imagery, fashion too can encapsulate powerful narratives.
Infusing the collection with this enigmatic imagery, the garments showcased esoteric concepts of Temperance, Tenacity, Eternity, Lust, etched into jacquard panels on roomy, short-sleeved bowling shirts. Contrasted against trailing loose pants in muted, earthy tones, these pieces offered a balanced blend of fluidity and intensity, reflective of de Vincenzo’s approach to the collection.
Shunning rigid structures, the designer championed freedom of form, with garments that loosely draped the body. Oversize blazers and wide pajama trousers echoed a relaxed vibe, while long robe-dusters, adorned with tapestry-inspired patterns, celebrated Etro’s bohemian spirit albeit in hushed tones. “I wanted shapes barely touching the body”, said de Vincenzo, encapsulating the essence of his design philosophy.
Adding a spark of vitality, a selection of multicolor fuzzy jumpers evoked the tactile allure of Anatolian Filiki rugs, while the grand finale unfurled in the form of fringed capes and coats. Made from thick vintage blankets woven with abstract florals, these pieces struck a harmonious chord between the artisanal and the extravagant.
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