David Koma‘s Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection is a bold exploration of the intersection between dance and fashion. Drawing inspiration from Jiří Kylián’s Sarabande, Koma skillfully blends classic ballet and contemporary dance elements to create a lineup that resonates with his diverse group of friends across ages, professions, and nationalities.
The collection is divided into two distinct categories: offstage and onstage. The offstage pieces showcase Koma’s expertise in crafting daywear, featuring tough work pants and blazers in two-tone cracked leather, dark denims, and a black leather stevedore’s jacket. Hoodies and t-shirts are adorned with the subtle outline of a faun, adding a touch of whimsy to the otherwise edgy ensemble.
Onstage, Koma’s creativity truly shines. A crinkle-finish trench in treated, papery cotton is dramatically adorned with a long loop of marabou threaded through one epaulet, seamlessly blending ceremonial military and industrial camp aesthetics. Marabou fringing also makes an appearance on a lilac crystal-spotted button-up, while a black satin blazer is enveloped in a shimmering, flexible haze of lurex thread.
Koma’s attention to detail is evident in the embellishments and materials used throughout the collection. T-shirts are printed with silhouetted photos of a dancer, while others feature the crystal outline of a corseted torso. The designer’s signature play on hard lines against softness and contour is beautifully translated into the male form, with pieces like the black leather basketball shorts bisected by a horizontal double line of stainless steel rivets.
Accessories play a significant role in the collection, with fabulous bulky bags in black or scarlet marabou doubling as extreme headpieces. Shoes and boots feature raised chisel toes, adding an element of edginess to the overall look.
Through this collection, David Koma successfully broadens his base by providing clothes that his male soulmates will eagerly embrace. The depth and variety in the collection ensure that there is something for everyone, whether they are seeking a powerful evening look or a more casual, yet still striking, daytime ensemble.
Read more: Dsquared2 Spring/Summer 2025 – Milan Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: David Koma
