Burberry’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, designed by Daniel Lee, brought a refreshing sense of calm and classicism, while infusing modern twists into the British brand’s iconic pieces. The Highbury Fields venue in London was transformed into a relaxed family gathering, showcasing not only the new collection but also traditional Yorkshire hospitality, and the multicultural fabric of Britain. With a focus on fluidity, femininity, and heritage, Lee’s designs emphasize the brand’s evolution and its commitment to remaining grounded, while also forging a new path in a market oversaturated with logos and eccentricities.
Taking the helm at Burberry, Daniel Lee had a clear vision – to redefine the brand while staying true to its core values. Beyond creating beautiful designs, Lee aimed to build hero products that would generate significant revenue for the brand. The Burberry Spring/Summer 2024 collection, therefore, was an opportunity for Lee to fine-tune his approach and create designs that not only have a strong commercial appeal but also resonate with the brand’s ethos. He stated, “Ultimately we want to design things that people want to wear,” emphasizing the importance of grounding the collection in classicism while allowing moments of British eccentricity to shine through.
The collection showcased a range of silver and gold accessories, motorcyclist-inspired designs, and touches of medieval heraldry, all while ramping up the luxury element with the addition of silk and special yarns to Burberry’s signature gabardine trenches. Inspired by the hardware on Burberry’s bags, a chain print adorned silk shirts, trenches, tiered ruffle dresses, and scarves. The Equestrian Knight, an archival emblem that Lee reimagined in bright blue, inspired the new Shield bag and appeared as a mega-buckle on a statement belt worn by a model in the show’s finale. This emphasis on British heritage extended beyond the runway, with a brand takeover in central London, including a temporary renaming of the Bond Street tube stop to “Burberry Street” and a collaboration with Norman’s, a north London café known for its British cuisine.
In a market inundated with logos, Lee opted for a more understated approach, cleverly incorporating Burberry signifiers into the designs. The Burberry Prorsum knight on horseback logo was deconstructed, with elements like metal carabiner clips in the shape of the knight’s horse and heavy-duty silver chains appearing on dresses, men’s shirts, and coats. Abstracted shield shapes became a brand cipher on bag straps, sunglasses, loafer buckles, and more, signaling a new way for people to recognize and associate with the ‘Burberry‘ brand. Additionally, Lee dedicated moments in the collection to English summer flowers and fruits, with cascading swarms of blue strawberries and blown-up meadow-flower prints adding a playful touch to the designs.
Lee’s vision for his first spring collection was to create designs that felt fluid, feminine, and easy to understand. The collection featured lean, knee-length, low-belted silhouettes with precisely judged asymmetric lapels and minimal epaulettes. Double-breasted two-piece tonic suits paid homage to London’s Savile Row, while cool moto-inspired shapes, asymmetric dresses with zigzagging zipper details, and shiny hardware on ’70s-style slip-ons for men, showcased a modern edge. These designs, combined with the psychedelic sparkly blue or gold mules and tall silvery sandals wrapped in leaves and vines, encapsulated the post-maximalist feeling for chic and easy clothes that Lee aimed to convey.
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©Photo: Burberry
