Demna Gvasalia, Balenciaga‘s Creative director, challenged the status quo of haute couture with his Fall/Winter 2024 collection. This wasn’t your typical display of extravagant gowns and delicate fabrics. Instead, Demna took inspiration from his own design vocabulary and subcultures, fusing them with Cristóbal Balenciaga’s iconic silhouettes.
The show opened with a surprising soundtrack – a guided meditation leading the audience towards happiness. This tranquility set the stage for a collection that defied expectations. Demna incorporated Balenciaga’s signature elements – three-quarter length sleeves, cocoon shapes, and dramatic hats – but reimagined them using materials synonymous with his own design aesthetic: denim, leather, tracksuits, and hoodies. He even bonded these unconventional materials with a satin scuba material to create his signature sculpted forms.
Demna explained, “I wanted to create a tribute to my personal vocabulary…but I needed to bring in that kind of equilibrium with Cristóbal.” This “equilibrium” manifested in several ways. Denim jackets were transformed into waistcoats, worn with oversized tees and saucer hats – a playful mix of Demna’s grunge and Balenciaga’s heritage. Puffers, sweats, and lumberjack shirts were all given the “Demna treatment” – featuring exaggerated sleeves and witchy boots.
However, Demna didn’t completely abandon the traditional aspects of haute couture. As the show progressed, the silhouettes became more evening-appropriate, though still crafted from unconventional materials. Patchwork dresses combined denim and parkas, while one particularly striking column dress was made from melted plastic shopping bags. These pieces challenged our perception of value in clothing, prompting us to question why some materials are considered more precious than others.
Demna’s respect for the house’s history was evident in a “wearable jewelry display” dress. This creation showcased a vintage necklace from the Balenciaga archives, demonstrating a thoughtful connection between Demna’s vision and Cristóbal Balenciaga’s legacy.
The final look epitomized Demna’s approach. A swirling mass of black nylon, reminiscent of Cristóbal’s gazar, was constructed just before the show – a one-off piece of “ephemeral couture” requiring three Balenciaga staff for assembly. While some interpreted this as representing the discarding of negative thoughts, Demna offered no explanation, leaving room for open interpretation.
Read more: Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024
©Photo: Balenciaga
