Vetements returned to the runway for the Fall/Winter 2024 season with a signature flourish: audacious excess. Guram Gvasalia, the label’s co-founder, presented a 90-look collection dominated by outsized silhouettes, pushing the boundaries of proportion and wearability.
The show opened with gargantuan tailoring, featuring jackets boasting shoulders padded with pool noodle-like tubes. This oversized aesthetic continued with body-hugging tanks paired with mega jeans that trailed on the floor. The evening segment offered a surprising contrast, showcasing figure-hugging jersey gowns adorned with a seemingly endless supply of crystals. Supermodel Carmen Kass and actress Marcia Cross strutted the runway in these shimmering numbers, the latter grappling humorously with the gown’s dramatic train.
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Gvasalia‘s playful spirit was evident throughout the collection. Playful winks included a Donatella Versace look alike sauntering down the runway and a sweatshirt emblazoned with the South Park character Towlie. A collaboration with Jean-Charles de Castelbajac revived the designer’s iconic teddy bear coats, reimagined with Vetements’ signature oversized flair.
The show wasn’t without its stumbles. A model wearing a refrigerator-sized pantsuit took a tumble on the runway, highlighting the impracticality of some looks. However, the incident didn’t deter Gvasalia, who continued to send out an endless stream of outlandish garments.
Vetements Fall/Winter 2024 is a collection guaranteed to spark conversation. While the commitment to excess might not break entirely new ground, it serves as a reminder of Gvasalia’s ability to push boundaries and generate excitement. This oversized extravaganza throws down a playful gauntlet in the ongoing fashion battle for sartorial supremacy.
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©Photo: Vetements