Rick Owens presented his Fall/Winter 2024 collection in a unique setting – his Parisian home, the Place du Palais-Bourbon. This intimate atmosphere marked a shift from the grand Palais de Tokyo shows of previous seasons, reflecting Owens’ desire for a more personal presentation.
The collection itself was a captivating blend of Owens’ signature aesthetic – Jugendstil, Brutalism, and Art Deco – with his early inspirations from aliens, concrete spaceships, and the 1927 film “Metropolis.” Earthy tones like loden and dust brown dominated the palette, punctuated by pops of plum, blue, and mustard.
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Owens revisited some of his successful looks from the Fall/Winter 2024 men’s show, including short puffers, sleek leather garments, and shaggy outerwear reminiscent of Chewbacca. He also brought back earlier ideas from his Hollywood Boulevard days, reworking felt capes and “dying bird chiffon” into contemporary pieces.
Rick Owens showcased his masterful tailoring with sculptural batwing shoulders, protective puffer vests, and flowing bias-draped dresses. These pieces, alongside sweater dresses with revealing “portholes” and shearling capes inspired by Jean Harlow, exuded a powerful, independent spirit.
Rick Owens’ personal connection to the collection was evident. The name of his California hometown, “Porterville,” emblazoned across capes in an Art Deco font, served as a reminder of his outsider childhood and his ongoing fight against “oppression and intolerance.” He further emphasized this theme by revisiting the army-blanket coats from his early days, symbolizing hope and rebellion against societal norms.
Read more: Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2024 – Paris Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: Rick Owens