This McQueen Spring-Summer 2026 collection marked a significant milestone for Seán McGirr, who presented his first women-only show since assuming the creative director role. Drawing inspiration from “The Wicker Man,” the 1973 British folk horror film, McGirr explored the darker magnetism of nature and the raw allure of feminine energy through sharply tailored silhouettes and sensual fabrics.
The collection unfolded on a circular stage scattered with maypoles, evoking pagan rituals and modern rebellion. From the moment the models appeared, it was clear that McGirr was returning to the essence of McQueen: fearless designs anchored in precision. The revival of the infamous bumster trousers signaled this intent. Low on the hips and long in the leg, the trousers recalled the subversive spirit of 1990s McQueen yet felt current, being cut from crisp navy wool or distressed leather.
McGirr’s fascination with “The Wicker Man” added psychological texture to the show. He spoke of being captivated by the film’s strange tension between desire and fear, restraint and abandon. This duality was evident in the tailoring, which appeared both strict and undone – jackets were crushed and creased, epaulets were frayed, and fabrics were intentionally worn. A police-style shirt was paired with a corset, and pencil skirts came in shredded white denim or dotted with metallic rings.
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This was a sensual collection, but not designed for spectacle. McGirr has little interest in provocation for its own sake. Instead, his work reflects a generation that views the body with freedom and ease. The bumsters, now nearly thirty years old as a design idea, reemerged as a confident statement rather than a shock. As McGirr noted, the women in his studio loved their rebellious comfort – proof that the design still speaks to youth and power.
Nature – fertile, dangerous, and unpredictable – wove through the show as a constant motif. One print featured two ladybugs in a fleeting embrace, referencing a scene from “The Wicker Man.” It was a subtle nod to the film’s fascination with life cycles and desire.
Eveningwear shimmered under the lights: cage dresses in slashed leather, corseted tops laced in raw silk, and a gold sequin gown softened with white feather ruffles. A parachute dress printed in watercolor hues closed the show, billowing like a release of pent-up energy.
McGirr’s approach to the McQueen Spring-Summer 2026 collection was self-assured, grounded in respect for the house’s legacy yet open to change. The garments exuded a sense of control, spontaneity, and strength, suggesting a designer growing into his own authority. For women who crave fashion with bite and honesty, McQueen has rarely felt this vital.
