This Balenciaga Spring-Summer 2026 collection marks a new chapter for the storied house under Pierpaolo Piccioli, who made his long-awaited debut with quiet confidence and precision. His arrival brought an air of calm refinement, steering the brand toward a future rooted in respect for its heritage and an understanding of modern femininity.
Piccioli, formerly the creative director at Valentino, found inspiration in the archives, beginning with Cristóbal Balenciaga’s 1957 sack dress. This revolutionary garment became a touchstone for his vision: simplicity as freedom. This idea guided the entire collection, which was built around volume, proportion, and presence rather than noise.
The first look, a long, black, sleeveless sack dress paired with oversized sunglasses, set the tone. From there, the silhouettes expanded into soft cocoons and tulip shapes, bearing traces of the founder’s architectural purity. Yet Piccioli’s signature warmth surfaced through color. Absinthe green, rose magenta, and deep red flooded the runway; each look was marked by deliberate restraint.
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There were no theatrical gimmicks or viral-ready stunts. Instead, the focus remained on craftsmanship. Coats stood tall and structured, tunics skimmed gracefully over narrow trousers, and balloon skirts floated with controlled ease. The designer’s mastery of form enabled the clothes to express themselves, echoing Cristóbal’s fascination with air, fabric, and movement.
References to Balenciaga’s modern successors emerged subtly. Riding hats and sharp peacoats nodded to Nicolas Ghesquière, while oversized shirts and tailored chinos subtly honored Demna’s urban legacy. Yet this was unmistakably Piccioli’s work – elegant, mature, and unforced.
Despite its sophistication, the show had an emotional undertone. After a year away from fashion, the Italian designer appeared rejuvenated, with a more thoughtful approach than ever before. The focus shifted from spectacle to sincerity. When he said he wanted to “put the human at the center of everything,” he meant it. The clothes reflected that sentiment, designed for women who seek presence over performance.
The audience, which included Isabelle Huppert, Kristin Scott Thomas, and Meghan Markle, watched a presentation that restored dignity to the runway. There was glamour, yes, but of the quiet kind – one that invites a second look rather than demands it.
