Elsa Schiaparelli is known for her mind-bending couture, her sense of surrealism, her extravagance and for her unapologetic celebration of fashion as one of the highest forms of art. Since his appointment in 2019, creative director Daniel Roseberry continues to celebrate this spirit of freedom and goes beyond our expectations each season.
Elsa Schiaparelli’s surreal legacy looms large – Schiaparelli often collaborated with the likes of Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau on boundary-pushing clothing and accessories – but Daniel Roseberry is proving himself a more than worthy inheritor.
“I really like the freedom in which Schiap explored things”, Roseberry said. “You know, while Chanel was making buttons made out of double C’s and it was very much an exercise in branding, Schiap’s buttons were peanuts and wrenches and hammers and birds and insects. It’s kind of this referential gymnastics that I feel like we can have here, as long as it feels like part of one world and one language. People know they can go to other places for more polite designs”.
Similarly to what he did in his Spring/Summer 2021 Haute Couture collection, Roseberry continued exploring the concept of body parts. As Elsa herself got inspired by the theme of anatomy, as we could see in the iconic skeleton dress, Roseberry paid tribute to her ideas and created something new from within his own imagination. This time, the female breast became the spotlight of the collection, with items like trench coats, sweaters and even bags featuring breast embroidery in various interpretations. Roseberry saw it as a celebration of the body in “its beautiful sculptural quality, its wondrous shapes”.
After two years at the house, Roseberry is more confident about pushing the envelope with his rtw, expanding into casual items like jeans and parkas, though always with an upscale flourish. His Texan tuxedo featured jeweled buttons running down the back, denim was present though in the form of a jumpsuit complete with oversized gold buttons in the shape of padlocks, noses, and ears while a black leather bomber jacket came with a dramatic detachable hood.