Roksanda Ilinčić is a designer who has a talent for creating collections that evoke the genteel mood of midcentury couture shows. Her Fall/Winter 2023 collection was no exception, featuring flowing silks, grand volumes in taffeta, and a flair for striking colors and combinations. One standout piece was a draped red evening gown that was printed with a trompe-l’œil style, creating a mesmerizing illusion.
The atmosphere at the presentation was elevated by the presence of British poet Arch Hades, who recited her latest work, titled “Arcadia”. This added to the intimate and timeless feeling of the show. Backstage, Ilinčić revealed that she was inspired by the work of late Japanese artist Atsuko Tanaka, a groundbreaking figure who was part of the post-war artistic movement Gutai. The designer interpreted Tanaka’s famous Electric Dress into foam rings that orbited her models, creating unique volumes.
The workmanship on display was truly impressive, particularly the black coats needle-punched with red threads that looked like rivers of hot lava. The sculpted foam dresses were theatrical and reminiscent of Lady Gaga’s unique style. Ilinčić, an art student from Belgrade, left post-Soviet Union Serbia 20 years ago and was accepted by the late Professor Louise Wilson to study at Central Saint Martins. Her father’s death last year may have contributed to the melancholic and contemplative tone of the proceedings.
