The Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ show featured an austere collection that was displayed under a galvanized steel ceiling that lifted to reveal Art Deco chandeliers. The runway theater was designed to reflect the garments, with elongated and abbreviated shapes on display. The Fall/Winter 2023 collection featured pointy collars and snippets of sweater buttoned into jackets or cardigans, leaving chests bare. The tailoring was peerless and youthful, with boxy jackets played against slim and tapered pants with permanent creases. The outerwear was sensational, with woolen topcoats, squarish or slim suede jackets and tunics in navy or caramel, and military bombers reduced to a puff of green or navy satin. The show had an electricity that was rare this week, with thousands of screaming tweens outside keen to catch a glimpse of South Korean boy band Enhypen.
Speaking on the show, Raf Simons said: “This collection is about archetypal clothing, about taking the recognizable but changing it through silhouette and cut – their form language is transformed. It is also about the DNA of Prada, clothes embedded with fragments of an identity we can recognize as fundamentally Prada. These are unmistakable and significant gestures, towards the heritage and history of the brand, and to the meaning of Prada now”.
