Alejandro Gómez Palomo, the creative genius behind Palomo Spain, showcased a spellbinding collection at The Plaza’s Terrace Room during the New York Fashion Week, redefining menswear with a queer orientation and a blend of historical references. With an unapologetic celebration of fluidity, the Spring/Summer 2024 collection of Palomo Spain presented an enchanting tableau of lightness, historical flourishes, and a hint of sensuality.
The choice of venue resonated with the grandiosity of the collection. The Plaza, once the stomping ground of Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, provided a rose-filled, carpeted backdrop that amplified the allure of the garments on display. “This is going to be the [Palomo] show that [people have] been wishing for forever,” quipped Palomo, underlining the significance of this collection not just for himself, but for the fashion community at large.
Inspired by the boudoir, the Spring/Summer 2024 collection featured camisoles, tap pants, bed robes, and ribbon-trimmed briefs that exuded an ethereal lightness. Laces seemed borrowed from the vestry, while bows on sleeves evoked images of Velasquez paintings. Palomo’s fondness for historical elements was evident in Jazz Age-inspired flapper dresses and feathered headpieces, creating a hybrid beauty reminiscent of a conflation between Gatsby and Daisy.
A statement by Jean Paul Gaultier, “garments have never had a gender,” could well be the motto of Palomo Spain. The collection included Ass Air looks, corsets, micro shorts with modern-day codpieces, and man-bras. “It is just another fashion item that can be beautiful; they are just flattering for us,” remarked Palomo, highlighting the aesthetic appeal of these pieces. His designs echo the belief that fashion should not be confined by traditional gender norms but should instead embrace the beauty of fluidity.
While gender fluidity is a cornerstone of Palomo’s designs, he acknowledges the dichotomy within human nature and himself. “There’s the two sides of myself, the one that falls in love every five minutes and is very idyllic, and there’s the black leather, Tom of Finland, the cruisy scene, the darker place,” he confessed. This internal duality was reflected in the collection, which juxtaposed romance and sex, lace and leather, softness and strength.
The collection, titled “Cruising in the Rose Garden,” encouraged models to make eye contact with the audience, mimicking the silent language of love and assignation. The flamenco-inspired music accentuated the dichotomies in the collection, mirroring the joy and arousal evoked by the garments. Flamenco pants and other pieces were constructed using a curved pattern technique learned from Spanish design duo Victorio y Lucchino.
The rose motif appeared throughout the collection, from charming bags to densely packed floral knits, the latter part of a collaboration with Spanish accessories and fashion brand Bimba y Lola. This partnership also included womenswear pieces, reflecting Palomo’s vision of fashion transcending gender boundaries.
Ultimately, Palomo celebrates the beauty of men and the endless possibilities of masculinity, although his clothes can be worn by anyone. The collection included matador-length jackets paired with pintucked pleated shorts and pants, alongside ditsy prints reminiscent of historical children’s wear. Despite Palomo noting a shift from last season’s celebration of childhood to more adult content, some pieces evoked a nostalgic charm.
Read more: Ludovic de Saint Sernin Spring/Summer 2024 – Paris Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: Palomo Spain
