Ludovic de Saint Sernin‘s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, unveiled in a Marais gallery, explores the captivating duality of ballet – its simultaneous innocence and eroticism.
Recently announced as Jean Paul Gaultier’s next guest couturier, the designer found inspiration in the demanding pursuit of perfection in ballet, juxtaposed with the dancer’s desire for authentic self-expression. This tension is palpable throughout the Ludovic de Saint Sernin Spring/Summer 2025 collection.
The line features body-conscious leather eyelet dresses, sequined gowns, intricately layered wool vests, metal mesh skirts, crystal boleros and delicate feather embellishments. These performance-ready pieces are balanced by everyday wardrobe staples like tank tops, logo t-shirts, casual shirts and baggy denim jackets. de Saint Sernin wanted to create a comprehensive collection that reflected the offstage life of a dancer, emphasizing wearability and versatility. Feather accents, inspired by the film ‘’Black Swan,’’ symbolize the complex relationship between opposing forces, reflecting the designer’s fascination with the film’s characters. A final feathered lingerie look, referencing a Yves Saint Laurent sketch of a Lido cabaret dancer, adds a historical touch.
The collection also demonstrates the designer’s focus on building a sustainable brand by catering to performers such as Dua Lipa, Sabrina Carpenter and Troye Sivan. Photographed by Adam Peter Johnson, the garments evoke a sense of dancers on and off duty, embodying the angel-demon tension of “Black Swan” and the choreography of Pina Bausch.
de Saint Sernin introduces new volumes and textures, including flounced tulle, softer fabrics, babydoll dresses and feathered or textured wool vests. Streamlined jersey dresses from Japan offer a sleek counterpoint, while intricate crystal lattice boleros and hand-placed eyelet leather tops showcase meticulous craftsmanship. A standout piece is a sculptural eyelet dress reminiscent of Alaïa‘s iconic zipper dress, with staggered bands suspended by invisible threads. Chaps hint at potential menswear for Gaultier, while collared shirts, micro shorts and suede blousons or trenches reinforce the designer’s gender-fluid aesthetic.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s aspirations to design ballet costumes are evident, further cementing the collection’s connection to the world of dance. A collaboration with Repetto for eyelet ballerina shoes adds the finishing touch.
©Photo: Ludovic de Saint Sernin