Julien Dossena’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Rabanne, presented on a rainy Wednesday in Paris, presented a compelling vision of modern femininity, combining practicality with a touch of exquisite extravagance. Rabanne’s Spring/Summer 2025 show solidified the brand’s recent Hollywood popularity, underscored by Cardi B’s presence. This collection builds on Dossena’s previous work, expanding the concept of an everyday Rabanne wardrobe. While the term “everyday” may seem inadequate to describe the intricate layering and innovative designs, it speaks to Dossena’s intention to create pieces that transcend mere occasion wear. He achieves this by combining classic silhouettes with youthful, sensual elements, elevating familiar streetwear staples like boxer shorts with playful, gender-bending layering, vibrant pastels and shimmering embellishments.
Blazers cinched in the back like parkas were styled over men’s striped shirts and shorts or barely-there skirts, creating a dynamic tension between masculine and feminine. Lingerie pieces covered in foil paid homage to the house’s legacy of using unconventional materials. Mariner-striped t-shirts, reimagined with embroidered lace overlays and worn over bloomers, exuded a charming, editorial-ready appeal. Similarly, open-back t-shirts paired with parachute nylon bubble skirts felt decidedly current. Knitwear also played an important role, exemplified by a black floral cardigan ingeniously linked to a matching crewneck at the shoulders.
The collection also featured a series of dazzling, jangly dresses, one of which sprinkled gold leaf with every step, referencing Paco Rabanne’s iconic 1968 “most expensive dress in the world” designed for Françoise Hardy. This opulent theme was echoed in a gold bag, touted as the world’s most expensive, further emphasizing the brand’s commitment to pushing boundaries. But Dossena didn’t rely solely on the house’s history with metallics. Light, ethereal gowns made from layers of foiled silk organza showcased a softer side of Rabanne, while a fluid silver apron dress cut low to reveal the hips offered a modern, sensual take on the house’s signature mesh.
Dossena’s ability to balance intricate construction with wearability was evident throughout. He likened the proportions of his layered looks to “a box with legs,” an apt description of the structured yet dynamic silhouettes. Even seemingly basic pieces were elevated with unique details such as silver foil finishes or lapels embroidered with tiny silver discs. The foil technique lent a futuristic touch to romantic lingerie, in keeping with Paco Rabanne’s original vision. A sparkling embroidered top composed of geometric panels linked by metal chains, paired with beaded basketball shorts, embodied contemporary glamour. Notably, three unique bags reinterpreted a 1969 Rabanne design in modern materials: fired white ceramic by Astier de Villatte, blown glass by Venini of Murano, and 18-karat gold coins by Arthus Bertrand. Each bag was accompanied by a matching mini dress, the gold version leaving a trail of gold leaf, a testament to Dossena’s dedication to experimentation and exploration of materials. According to Dossena, this constant evolution and pushing of boundaries is at the heart of the Rabanne brand. The models’ plastic-encased pumps, which resemble protective galoshes, served as a practical yet stylish touch, reflecting the collection’s blend of functionality and artistry.
©Photo: Rabanne