Ascending a rickety staircase into a raw construction site amidst the throngs of fashion’s elite for LGN Louis-Gabriel Nouchi’s Fall/Winter 2024 show felt strangely exhilarating. This wasn’t just any runway experience; it was a gritty pilgrimage to LGN Louis-Gabriel Nouchi‘s inner sanctum, reminiscent of Parisian underground haunts from the days of Helmut Lang and Martin Margiela. Perhaps not coincidentally, Nouchi, a La Cambre alumnus, carries the torch of avant-garde tailoring lit by those very Belgian masters.
His sharp cuts and edgy silhouettes have captivated young Parisians and menswear aficionados alike, and this season Nouchi upped the ante by venturing beyond familiar territory. Inspired by Maupassant’s ”Bel-Ami”, a tale of ruthless social climbing, Nouchi explored the sartorial language of wealth and its seductive allure. “Show us the green, the dough, the brass,” the collection seemed to declare, with coins scattered on the seats and the venue itself, a gutted former bank, serving as a potent symbol.
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Tuxedos and dinner suits were Nouchi’s playground, reimagined in high-gloss leather and lush jacquards that mimicked fur. This textural opulence danced on Nouchi’s signature silhouette – broad shoulders, cinched waists, and a constant push and pull between gravitas and sensuality. Bling didn’t shy away either, with penny loafers and brogues adorned with oversized coins courtesy of France’s La Monnaie de Paris.
Recognizing the inherent inequality in Maupassant’s story, Nouchi used it as a springboard to introduce LGN’s first foray into women’s wear. “Equality in terms of looks,” he declared, subtly tweaking button placements and tailoring patterns to fit feminine curves. The LGN woman, according to Nouchi, is “central, fierce,” and who better to embody her than Coco Rocha, who closed the show in a crisp shirt and tie, draped in a patent leather coat, exuding effortless power on the runway.
Read more: Louis-Gabriel Nouchi clinches prestigious Andam Award 2023
©Photo: LGN Louis-Gabriel Nouchi
