This Jean Paul Gaultier Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented by the Dutch designer Duran Lantink, brought back the shock and humor that once defined Paris fashion. Lantink, known for his eccentricity and raw creativity, revived the house’s rebellious roots while pushing boundaries few dare approach today.
The show unfolded beneath the Musée du Quai Branly, mirroring Lantink’s offbeat energy with long bars strewn with empty glasses and a sense of controlled chaos. What emerged on the runway felt both futuristic and nostalgic. The first look, a sculptural silhouette reminiscent of Gaultier’s iconic cone bra but reimagined with pneumatic curves, set the tone for an evening that redefined sensuality and freedom.
The collection felt like a visual conversation between past and present. Gaultier’s familiar motifs – the tattoo mesh, sailor stripes, and corsetry – were reimagined with a sense of humor and modern provocation. Futuristic bodysuits with 3D tattoo prints, bisected trench coats, and minidresses carved into improbable shapes captured Lantink’s signature approach: unfiltered, fearless, and entirely his own.
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It was clear that the designer had not been content to simply revisit the archives. Instead, he constructed his own memory of Gaultier through a contemporary lens, channeling the irreverent spirit of youth culture and the late-night energy of 1990s Amsterdam. Lantink cited Het RoXY Archief, a photographic record of a legendary nightclub, as inspiration, pointing to the sense of liberation in the images. His vision was rooted in that same energy: transformation, playfulness, and a kind of visual rebellion that refuses to apologize.
Latex, wire, and illusion played starring roles. There were hirsute bodysuits depicting exaggerated anatomy, cropped jackets curling up like sailor hats, trousers with curved waistlines, and sunglasses that seemed to float away from the face. These details might sound shocking, but their precision and craftsmanship grounded the spectacle. While Gaultier once used clothing to challenge convention, Lantink seems determined to do so again.
Beneath the humor was intelligence. The designer’s understanding of the Gaultier legacy was evident: freedom and individuality through fashion. His references were playful yet respectful. The Junior Gaultier label appeared on tops and leggings, reintroduced with a nod to a new generation. It was an unmistakable reminder that empowerment through self-expression is a timeless concept.
This debut marked the start of a new era for the house. After years of guest-designed collections, Lantink’s appointment signals stability and a willingness to embrace youth. While the collection may not fit easily into a commercial frame, it rekindles the essence of Jean Paul Gaultier: clothes that challenge norms and celebrate the thrill of dressing differently.
