Hublot unveiled something unusual at SIAR in Mexico City: the Hublot Big Bang Unico Calavera All Black, which represents a meaningful celebration that goes beyond typical limited editions. To mark the Big Bang’s 20th anniversary, the Swiss manufacturer chose Mexico, releasing just 100 pieces of this watch featuring the collection’s first-ever sapphire dial with a skull motif. This isn’t an exercise in shock value or Gothic theatrics. The piece connects directly to Mexico’s Day of the Dead traditions and acknowledges the relationship between Hublot and Mexican collectors that spans two decades.
Why does Mexico matter to Hublot?
Julien Tornare, Hublot’s CEO, explained, “Hublot and Mexico have a deep connection and a lasting friendship.” He explained that celebrating the Big Bang’s 20th anniversary in Mexico was a natural choice, given the brand’s loyal Mexican customer base. The company designed this particular watch for local customers and the dozen or so retailers operating there. Tornare noted that Mexican traditions have “fueled our creativity for 20 years,” adding genuine weight to what could have been just another market-specific release.
Mexico has long been home to serious Hublot collectors, particularly those drawn to the limited edition All Blacks. The calavera, or decorated skull, holds profound cultural significance in Mexico. Unlike Western associations with death, which tend to be dark and somber, the calavera represents something entirely different. These skulls are joyful symbols associated with Día de Muertos, when families welcome back the spirits of departed loved ones. José Guadalupe Posada popularized calaveras through his satirical engravings in the early 20th century, and they have become inextricably linked to Mexican identity.
Sapphire dial
Hublot chose sapphire for the dial to create transparency, which allows you to see directly through to the HUB1280 Unico movement beneath it. A stylized skull is centered on this sapphire surface. Light and shadow dance between the black ceramic case and the visible movement components. The skull catches your eye first, but then your gaze travels deeper into the three-dimensional architecture below. The bridges, gears, and the column wheel at six o’clock remain visible through the translucent dial.
The skull design covers the bridges and gear train of the Unico caliber, creating visual layering that makes sense in the cultural context of Día de Muertos. Looking at the dial means looking directly at death and the mechanism that marks the passing of time. This captures the philosophical duality that Día de Muertos celebrates. Hublot cleverly added a detail at the nine o’clock position: the skull’s left eye constantly rotates to function as the small seconds display. This playful complication ties directly to the cyclical nature of life and death that the calavera symbolizes.
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Technical construction
The 42mm case is made of microblasted black ceramic to maintain the “All Black” aesthetic that has defined this subset of Big Bang watches since 2006. Hublot combines multiple materials in its construction. The screws and pushers are made of titanium. The case back is ceramic. The crown is made of black PVD titanium overmolded with rubber.
Inside sits the HUB1280 Unico movement, Hublot’s self-winding chronograph that debuted in 2010. The Unico marked a turning point for Hublot, establishing the brand as a true manufacture capable of producing its own movements rather than relying on outside suppliers. Then-CEO Ricardo Guadalupe positioned the Unico based on the philosophy that the movement forms the soul of the watch and should be integral to the design. The caliber features a column-wheel chronograph with a dual horizontal clutch and flyback function. By placing the column wheel and clutch on the dial side, rather than hiding them, Hublot made a statement about transparency and confidence in their engineering.
The movement is 30 mm in diameter and 6.75 mm thick. It runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers approximately 72 hours of power reserve. The chronograph uses a 60-minute counter at the 3 o’clock position. At the 4:30 position is the skeletonized date window. Large luminous hands mark the hours and minutes.
Straps and presentation
Hublot created an exclusive strap for this model that combines black calfskin and rubber with an embossed skull motif. A second strap is included: textured black rubber with a titanium and ceramic folding clasp. The watch arrives in a specially designed gift box with a stylized skull on the front. Each piece is individually numbered out of the limited production run of 100.
The watch is water resistant up to 100 meters. The sapphire crystal has an anti-reflective coating. The overall thickness measures 14.5 mm. The price is set at 26,300 USD, 22,900 CHF, 26,200 EUR, or 21,600 GBP.
The Big Bang twenty
The original Big Bang was introduced in 2005 and instantly transformed how people perceived Hublot. Founded in 1980, the brand was radical for its time with the idea of mounting a gold case on a rubber strap. However, the Big Bang took that fusion concept much further. The design won Best Design at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève that same year. Its layered case construction, bold size, and willingness to mix materials were disruptive at the time, and the design has aged remarkably well.
Between 2005 and 2025, Hublot transformed into an integrated manufacturer with the capacity to produce its own movements. The Unico movement represents the culmination of that transformation, giving physical form to the creative ambition that has always driven the brand. The All Black series, which began in 2006, became highly collectible. Covering a watch entirely in black ceramic, rubber, and darkened metals made a monochromatic statement that immediately found an audience.
