For Bally‘s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, Creative director Simone Bellotti transformed the 17th floor of Milan’s Velasca Tower – a mid-century skyscraper with panoramic views – into a stage for an exploration of opposing forces. The Swiss luxury label, revitalized under Bellotti’s tenure, presented designs that explored the tension between structured routine and unbridled self-expression, reflecting the cultural dualities at the heart of Swiss identity.
Bellotti was inspired by archival photographs of Bally’s 1950s office workers, whose achievements were celebrated with tidy displays of awards, and contrasted them with the glittering audacity of Swiss performance artist Luciano Castelli. This juxtaposition materialized in sharp tailoring punctuated by bursts of texture: austere black leather dresses erupted with tufts of pink shearling, while stiff crinoline peplums framed slices of bare skin. Gray felt shirt suits, as precise as corporate uniforms, were paired with cotton totes printed with wildflowers – a quiet rebellion against conformity.
The collection’s sculptural silhouettes underscored the contradiction. Hourglass dresses in organza or leather featured circular front panels inspired by office desks, their impractical elegance challenging utilitarian norms. Balloon skirts in electric blue sequins billowed beneath textured leather bodices, their sparkle deliberately clashing with austere daytime shapes. Men’s looks mirrored this interplay, with shiny black leather suits and shearling-trimmed outerwear subverting traditional masculine codes.
Accessories underscored the theme. Archival employee portraits reappeared on minimalist totes, while sequined berets and face-covering makeup nodded to Castelli’s theatricality. Bags ranged from sleek leather crossbodies to rugged, hiking-inspired styles that fused alpine heritage with urban polish.
Bellotti’s work at Bally has always balanced Swiss precision with Italian flair, but Fall/Winter 2025 leaned toward dissonance. A black leather midi skirt, slit to reveal legs, was trimmed with lime green fur, a detail that felt both primal and meticulously calculated. These contrasts echoed the designer’s own reflections: “I crave discipline, but breaking routine is liberating.”
The show’s intimate setting and closed backstage fueled speculation about Bellotti’s future, following rumors of a possible move to Jil Sander. But his latest offering reaffirmed his talent for reinterpreting traditional codes. While the collection reiterated signatures like peplum tops and vintage-inspired denim, its boldest moments – shearling bursting from seams, sequins clashing with tailoring – suggested a designer pushing against boundaries, both his own and those of the brand.
©Photo: Bally