Gabriela Hearst introduced her Fall/Winter 2022 collection through the lens of gender freedom, quoting from Professor Emanuele Lugli, who teaches art history at Stanford University. “What’s remarkable is androgyny reappears in moments of history where new thinking starts to emerge… Fashion is thus rediscovered as a privileged field of inquiry precisely because often it is the very practice that reiterates sexual and gender binaries”, she said, “But once it is freed from such obligations, fashion emerges as capable of a new creative mission that has the power to disrupt self-limiting lives and grant access to a new, wholesome one”.
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Gabriela Hearst credits her teenage daughters for advancing her own thinking. “Kids want to be free”, she continued. “For them, gender is an imposition”.
As is Hearst’s wont, she put nature and sustainability at the heart of her thinking and process. The luscious citrine and watermelon colors of her Manos del Uruguay-knitted chunky cashmere sweaters were achieved via botanical dyes. The print on the cashmere-silk knit poncho that was a focal point of the collection was taken from a painting created by Ana Martínez Orizondo, visual artist and writer, called “Winter Horse”, one work in a series that explores trees and human relationships to them. And the crochet motif on a sleeveless dress and a long-sleeve top and midi skirt was inspired by a peacock’s tail feathers.
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©Gabriela Hearst