The Fendi Spring/Summer 2025 show was more than a display of exquisite garments; it was a poignant exploration of the brand’s century-long heritage, a tribute to the women who built the fashion house, and a meditation on the essence of modernity. Kim Jones, the creative force behind Fendi womenswear, delved into the brand’s rich history, drawing inspiration from its archives and the indelible mark left by four generations of Fendi women.
Presented against a minimalist backdrop reminiscent of modernist furniture, the collection opened with a series of ethereal, flapper-esque dresses, their gossamer fabrics adorned with delicate Art Deco embroidery and subtle fringe detailing. Far from nostalgic replicas, these diaphanous creations were infused with a distinctly contemporary sensibility, their silhouettes streamlined and necklines modernized to evoke the slip dresses of the 1990s.
A master at fusing historical references with modern design, Kim Jones seamlessly transitioned from these opening pieces to a diverse array of looks that showcased the breadth of Fendi’s craftsmanship. Luxurious shearling coats in muted beige tones were juxtaposed with crisp white crocodile-suede t-shirt and skirt ensembles. A mesh vest, trimmed and cinched with the house’s signature Cuoio Romano leather, was a subtle nod to Fendi’s commitment to artisanal excellence.
The collection also saw a unique collaboration with heritage American boot maker Red Wing, resulting in exquisitely crafted Selleria-stitched moccasin work boots. These rugged boots, a testament to the history of female industry that Jones wanted to celebrate, were unexpectedly paired with frilly floral socks and delicate floral tea dresses, creating a striking juxtaposition of grunge and femininity.
Throughout the collection, Jones revisited Fendi’s iconic Baguette bag, reimagining it in a variety of tactile and bohemian iterations. Often fringed and amplified in volume, these bags were adorned with an eclectic array of pendants, trinkets and jewelry, including whimsical bouquets of fur and ruffled earbud cases.
The soundtrack, a poignant blend of Max Richter’s evocative compositions and snippets of conversations between Silvia Venturini Fendi and her mother, Anna, about the nature of beauty and fashion, underscored the collection’s thematic focus on family legacy. The audio recordings served as a poignant reminder of the women who have shaped Fendi, from Adele, who opened the first Fendi boutique in Rome in 1925, to Delfina, Jones’ enduring muse, who designed the jewelry for the Spring/Summer 2025 collection.
©Photo: Fendi
