Erdem Moralıoğlu’s Pre-Fall 2025 collection is a great mix of fashion and fine art. It shows a collaboration that has a really poetic feel to it. The well-known designer, under his label Erdem, has teamed up with artist Kaye Donachie to create a line that is both evocative and contemporary. This partnership brings together two creative minds who have a deep connection and a similar approach to highlighting the histories of remarkable women.
Moralıoğlu and Donachie, who both graduated from London’s Royal College of Art, explore the stories of important women, reimagining their lives through their artistic talents. Donachie is known for her ethereal portraits of 20th-century creative women, which are rendered in soft focus and dreamy washes of color. Her work really resonated with Moralıoğlu, and he ended up commissioning her to paint a portrait of his late mother as a young woman – a figure he’d never known at that age. This personal connection was the spark that led to their collaboration on the Erdem Pre-Fall 2025 collection.
The collection is full of delicate, painterly touches and intricate floral embellishments, which really show off Donachie’s artistic style. The fabrics have a lived-in, bohemian look that contrasts with the luxurious craftsmanship of the garments. Moralıoğlu turns Donachie’s original sketches into prints, embroideries, and embellishments that are used to decorate the pieces, creating a seamless blend of fashion and art.
Lush fabric rosettes with cascading ribbons are pinned to sleek overcoats, sculptural jackets, and midi dresses, adding a touch of whimsy. The florals look like they were sketched with a felt-tip pen on crinkled dresses and sheer mohair sweaters, while a short cable-knit cardigan has a needle-punch flower that looks like a corsage. The shapes are sculptural but still look relaxed and elegant. They use shrunken technical satin, which makes the clothes look crinkled and informal.
The color palette is full of different shades of pink and blue, with designs inspired by roses and patterns from the toile de Jouy. Sheer skirts and tops show off structured bras and shorts underneath, combining modern sensuality with classic sophistication. The slightly blurred photos that go with the collection give you a sense of the artistic vibe behind the designs. You can see quick, loose strokes in the florals and embroideries that are similar to Donachie’s impressionistic techniques. The blues in the printed denim give the pieces a bit of depth and texture.
Erdem is also launching a new handbag collection as part of the collaboration. The Bloom bags have brass tulips on the handles, which echo the floral themes of the garments. Flowers aren’t just blooming across the clothes, they’re also making an appearance in accessories. This shows how the brand’s creative vision is growing.
Even though it’s been a tough time for luxury brands, Erdem’s doing really well. The brand is planning to open a second store in Seoul in March and is going to launch the new bag collection with Mytheresa early next year. This growth lines up with the themes of the collection, which suggests a promising future for the brand.
The Erdem Pre-Fall 2025 collection is a sneak peek of the full collaboration, which is set to debut at London Fashion Week in February. It shows the creative partnership between Moralioglu and Donachie, and gives us a taste of the rich, imaginative narratives to come.
This partnership celebrates the histories of inspiring women and also brings together fashion and fine art in a harmonious fusion.
©Photo: Erdem / Ruby Pluhar