Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2025 collection, titled “Uncertain Future,” offers a powerful reflection on the current state of the world, exploring themes of vulnerability, protection and hope through a remarkably abstract array of garments.
The collection opens with stark white, rigid structures that suggest the protective instinct in uncertain times. These early pieces evolve into softer, quilted forms with intricate jacquards that evoke Asian and African textiles. Kawakubo incorporates elements of protest, with glimpses of slogans such as “Protect our…” appearing on a passing dress.
The collection features an intriguing juxtaposition of textures and shapes. Models navigate the runway wrapped in metal mesh, down-filled structures and photo-printed fabrics. Oversized cones of white thread adorned with gold-flecked gauze and scarlet tulle create an ethereal presence.
Other looks include voluminous, multi-piece gowns and bow-shaped structures wrapped in netting. The show culminates in a final trio of architectural marvels: large gowns made from what appear to be rolled cylinders of wrapping plastic.
Rei Kawakubo’s designs challenge conventional notions of clothing and invite viewers to consider the complex relationship between fashion and the world around us. Her use of bright fabrics and textures reminiscent of cake frosting and stuffed animals adds a surprising element of levity to the collection.
This juxtaposition of darkness and light, a hallmark of Kawakubo’s work, creates a compelling tension that leaves a lasting impression.
©Photo: Comme des Garçons